the leather manufacturer endeavours to make a durable final product from the wast product "raw hide and skin" . Different types of tannage stablize the putrescribe proteins, a water-repellent treatment protects the leather against excessive wetting and the final finish protects it against mechanical and climate influences.
Although the so-called “ easy-care finish ’’, a type of finish which is hardly affected by impacts and scratches, has been propagated and applied for the last few years, all leather articles of everyday use require permanent care. In most cases this comprises purely superficial treatments which should be chosen individually for each type of leather. The method of care basically depends on the finish and surface condition of the leather in question.
Leather care products
Polishes, sprays and liquids
On grain leather these products have the function of cleaning the surface of the leather, imparting gloss and providing a protective film against water, dust, snow or salt. Such film-forming substances must not be used for suede and nubuk leathers as these are produced on flesh side and don’t require any finish containing binder or lacquer.
The products are divided into:
Oil products:
Pure oil products, color-less or colored, consist of waxes, paraffin and heavy benzene or small quantities of terpentine oil as solvent. These products are very suitable for the care of shoes. There is a risk of staining on leather which has porous finishing coats.
Emulsion
There are water-in-oil emulsions and oil-in-water emulsions. The first has a similar field of application as the pure oil products, without the risk increased staining.
If applied carefully oil-in-water emulsions can also be used for aniline leathers.
Aqueous products:
Products of this category are free from organic solvents. They are available as colorless or milky liquids, filled in bottles or aerosol cans. They are used to treat the leather garments, upholstery leathers and also fine leather articles.
Mild detergents
In dissolved form can be used to clean superficial dirt from finished leathers by rubbing lightly. The surfactant contained in these detergents help to dissolve the dirt.
Neutral soap
Non-alkaline soap solutions thatare made from palm oil or olive oil (Marseilles soap). Used suede leather with light fat liquoring effect.
Leather oil, leather greases
These consist of mixture of neutral fats, synthetic fats or oil, mineral oil and waxes. They serve the purpose of preserving pliability, mostly of vegetably tanned leather.
Water-repellent agents
Many water-repellent substances are used. Application by means of aerosol can is recommended to achieve a thin, uniform protective coat.
Recommendation for the care of different leathers
For perfect leather care the surface of the leather must be clean from residual dirt particles. Furthermore the leathers should not be wet through or moist in parts. This would impair adhesion of the products and cause uneven gloss and hardening of the material. It is always recommended that the selected product be tried out on unexposed sections. Aniline leather should be protected from direct sunlight.
Unfinished grain leathers (aniline leather)
Finished grain leathers (with thin or thick coat) Suede and nubuk leathers
Shoes and boots A preliminary treatment with water-repellent agents is recommended to protect the articles against water. The care substances are emulsions aqueous products. The care of these leather accounts for the majority of all articles. After dirt has been removed the shoes are treated with oil shoe cream and subsequently polished. Good brushing of the leather surface with a foam sponge or soft brush. Treat regularly with color sprays or water-repellent sprays.
Furniture and upholstery leathers
After removing dust wipe off the dirt in large sections with a cloth soaked in neutral soap solution. Wipe with a moist cloth. After drying treat with special leather milk or mousse. Do not treat deep fatty stains. Wipe off stains at once if possible. Be very careful when treating deeper stains.
Garments
Smooth leathers should be lightly wiped with the foam of a mild detergent and carefully rubbed with neutral oils. Afterwards special oils are dabbed on with cotton-wool. To clean suede and nubuk leathers brush the fibers. Dry cleaning is recommended for heavily soiled garments.
Gloves
Wipe gloves with a mild detergent while wearing them and dry very gently. Put the gloves on once again towards the end of drying to maintain their shape.
Bags, fancy articles
Clean the surface from dirt, gently wipe stains on aniline leathers or leathers which have received an aqueous finish with the corresponding care product. After drying treat the leather with colorless polish or polishes of the corresponding color and buff with a cloth or a very soft brush. With nubuk or suede leathers simply brush up the fibers with a sponge or brush.
Saddlery leather and leather for drive belts
The vegetably tanned leathers are often subject to high loads. Rub them with leather grease from time to time and allow the grease to penetrate. Heat the products slightly if necessary.
Work shoes
Clean the surface, rub with leather oils or leather grease and allow sinking in. The treatment should be repeated from time to time depending on how often the shoes are worn. It serves to preserve softness and pliability of the upper leather. Avoid using excessive amounts of oil or grease.
Shoes soles
Hard-worn shoe soles can be regularly rubbed with linseed oil or special grease water-repellent pastes.
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Thursday, August 27, 2009
Monday, August 24, 2009
types of leather
Shrunk leather
These are the leather in which a grain shrinking effect is produced on the grain side by highly astringent synthetic tanning agents or line shrinking effect by means of glutaraldehyde or a special grain bubble(which is prominent and larger in size)shrinking effect by combination vegetable and glutaraldehyde tanning. These effects are very firmly fixed by subsequent chrome and are more resistant during use compared to artificial grain.
Raw stock
Cattle hides, calf, sheep and goat skin less frequently buffalo and zebu hides.
Requirements of production
Manufactured in thickness of 1.0-2.2 mm. The stronger and firmer the skin and skin texture, the deeper, more prominent and more even is the effect produced. The shrinking effect is also influenced by the degree of dewatering of the pelt, by the float length and by the duration of treatment.
Uses
Mostly used for leather hand bag. It can also be used for garment purpose.
Patent leather
These are leather with a mirror-bright gloss and with a relatively thick finish coat. Manufactured mainly in cold lacquering processes with polyurethane lacquers, less frequently by lamination.
Raw stock
Cattle hide calf or goat skin and occasionally also cow-hide lower splits.
Requirement of production
Manufactured in thickness of 1.0-2.0 mm. Good adhesion value and a lasting resistance to cracking of the finish coat should be ensured.
Uses
The uses of this type of leather are for ladies footwear and high quality leather garment.
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Pakistan leather industry survey report
Most of the leathers tannery located in Karachi korangi industrial area others are in Lahore Qasoor and Sialkot. In Karachi there are near about 200 tanneries in which about 50 are directly exporting leather finished leather or products of leather.
Pakistan leather industry has established a waste water treatment plant in Karachi.
This treatment plant has been working for 4 years.Waste water treatment is a good environment policy of Korangi tanneries but there is still need for solid waste to manage which is very harmful for industries and also for employee of leather industries.
LEATHER INDUSTRY IN PAKISTAN
The leather industry in Pakistan has developed significantly over last fifty years.
At the time of independence, there were few tanneries; the exports were only minimal
and included only wet blue exports. The contribution to manufacturing GDP was
nominal.
Today, after 56 years down the road, leather industry has emerged as a robust
indigenous industry that is not only the second biggest export-oriented industry in the
manufacturing sector but also the second in overall exports of Pakistan. At present, it
adds 5% to manufacturing GDP and 7% to total exports. Besides, more than 200,000
people are employed by this sector.
Being an agricultural economy, Pakistan has a natural advantage in the area of
livestock population, which is the major input (Hides & Skins) of the industry. Estimated
livestock population comprises of cattle, 22million; Buffalo 23m; Sheep 24m and Goat
49million. At present, the country produces 7.8m Hides & 38m Skins per annum.
Although the local production of hides & skins used in the tanning industry has been
increasing, the supply has been insufficient to keep up with growing demand. Therefore,
industry has to import raw hides & skins from international market to keep its tanning
industry remaining. Pakistan imported 13.6 million worth of raw hides and skins in the
year 2002-2001.Hides and skins are mainly imported from Iran, Afghanistan, and Africa.
ESTIMATED LIVESTOCK POPULATION OF PAKISTAN.
(MILLION HEADS)
TYPE OF
LIVE
STOCK
1996 1997 1998 1999 2000
Cattle 20.8 21.2 21.6 22 22.4
Buffalo 20.8 21.4 22 22.7 23.3
Sheep 23.7 23.8 23.9 24.1 24.2
Goat 42.7 44.2 45.8 47.4 49.2
Pakistan’s leather industry has been export oriented for several decades. Until the
70s Pakistan exported raw hides & skins and semi processed leather in the form of
pickled, wet blue and crust leather. It was not until the early 80s that finished leather and
leather products became a major export earner, subsequently; the local supply of hides &
skins was fully utilized by the new tanneries that were being set up. Soon thereafter, a
liberal import policy encouraged the import of raw hides & skins.
The leather and leather product industry is concentrated mainly at Karachi, Kasur,
Sialkot, Gujranwala, Faisalabad, Multan & Peshawar. However the major clusters of
tanneries are located at Karachi (Korangi), Kasur & Sialkot. There are 784 tanneries, 461
leather garment units, 348 gloves manufacturing units and over 525 footwearmanufacturing
units the country. Leather industry produces fine quality products, which
include finished leather, leather footwear, garments, gloves and wide variety of leather
goods (hand bags, purses, suitcases, key chain, wallets, etc).
The industry promises a bright future given its established nature and increasing world
market opportunities. Industry needs to exploit this potential to its full extent by operating
at full capacity and realizing the world economic scenario represented by tough
competition, growing quality awareness and environmental and social concerns.
PAKISTAN’S LEATHER EXPORTS GROWTHS.
The leather industry is basically an export-oriented industry. Almost 100% of
leather garments and leather gloves are exported. However, only 4% of leather footwear
is exported & the rest is consumed locally.
Pakistan leather exports have grown substantially over last 35 years with
very few years (1981-83 & 1997-2000) of negative growth. The overall growth rate of
impressive 11% is hardly matched by any other traditional exportable product over this
period of time. The export figures have increased from 77mUS$ in 1978 to 693m US$
during 2000-2001. The change has occurred not only in volume but also in the
composition of items Just ten years ago in 1988-89, the exports of Leather & Leather
product were only 400m US$ & out of this the share of value added leather garments &
leather products was only 39%. In 1999-2000 the share of value added leather products
has increased to 68%. Performance of Pakistan’s leather and leather product exports for
last five years is given below:
PAKISTAN'S EXPORTS OF LEATHER & LEATHER PRODUCTS
(VALUE IN 000USD)
ITEMS. 1996-971997-98 1998-99 1999-2000 2000-2001
i) Leather Tanned 239,608 207,819 177,291 175,163 232,921
ii) Leather Gloves 18,887 27,242 26,270 29,839 37,332
iii) Apparel & Clothing of Leather 338,207 306,630 303,471 300,143 375,597
iv) Leather Manufactures n.s. 6,943 9,552 4,582 8,680 12,587
V)Leather Footwear 39,620 28,228 23,625 28,044 34,755
TOTAL: 643,265 579,471 535,239 541,869 693,192
MAIN MARKETS
The main markets for Pakistani leather and leather products include Europe,
America, Canada, japan, Saudi Arabia and the far eastern countries.
CHAPTER 2
KORANGI TANNERIES ZONE
INDUSTRY SCENARIO
1. There are nearly 150 Small & Medium Enterprises operating in Korangi
Tanneries Zone. However, the total number of units working in this zone is more than
170. About 5-6 thousand people are employed within the cluster. Total exports from this
cluster is about 25% of Pakistan’s total exports of leather & leather products. Most of the
SMEs are involved in tanning and finishing of the Raw hides & skins. These SMEs
purchase raw hides & skins from local market or from merchant traders on cash or
credit. Where as processed leather is sold on cash as well as on credit in the local market.
Most of time trade is done on credit basis.
- Most of the SMEs(nearly 100 units)operate on same lines..
- Most of such SMEs do not avail Export Finance due to religious reasons that
is involving interest obligations.
- While other SMEs are restrained by cumbersome procedures involved in bank
finance.
- Even some of small & medium sized enterprises are not aware of services
offered by EPB.
- Most of SMEs are also unaware of various institutions involved in the uplift
of the leather industry.
- Some of SMEs (7-10) are involved in job working.
- Few medium sized manufactures are involved in exports.
- Raw material processed and finished by SMEs is sold to big manufacturers in
the zone and other parts of Karachi and also sold to manufacturers in up
country (Sialkot and Lahore).
2. Most of the enterprises are dissatisfied with the services provided by govt.utility
providers like Pak Telecommunication, KMC, KDA, SBP (EFS), KESC, CBR, labor
department etc. That they receive higher/inflated bills from KESC and told about
frequent load shedding in the tanneries zone. This is seriously affecting their production
capacities and cost of production. The quality of reception of telephone lines was very
poor. This was practically observed by the undersigned. It was also reported that number
of lines were lying dead. This state of affairs was seriously affecting communication with
business partners within & outside the country.
3. The most pressing problem of the Korangi Tanneries Zone identified by all the
entrepreneurs was the possibility of cleanliness of the area. It was informed that no
foreign visitors can be invited to visit this area due to extreme dirtiness, very bad smell,
wastage on the roads & streets. Big exporters can afford to arrange meetings of their
buyers in five star hotels but it is not possible for the SMEs to do so. SMEs believe that if
this area is made clean then they will have also a chance to invite foreign buyers &
extend their export business. They believe that if this area is made clean worth moving
around then business opportunities will definitely increase. Combined effluent Treatment
Plant(CETP) is near completion, it is hoped this largely solve problem of disposal the
liquid effluent. However, the issue of solid waste management will still remain.
4. PTA (SZ) is poorly provided for disposal of solid waste management. Mr.Gulzar
Firoze ex Chairman, PTA & President environmental committee of Korangi Tanneries
zone told that disposal is the responsibility of KMC. KMC has never made an effort of
cleaning this area. Mr.Firoze thinks that if few more loaders are provided to PTA the
whole area can be cleaned.
5. NILT is the most prestigious institute for HR development in Karachi Tanneries
Zone. The institute offers various courses in Leather Technology. Prof.Saeed Siddiqui,
Director NILT, thinks that there is lack of awareness not only in the general public about
the nature of education & services provided by NILT but most people in industry are also
unaware about necessity of NILT & its development. He believes that importance of
NILT needs to be highlighted. If more & more people realize the need for the skilled
manpower NILT will be only solution it. Prof.Saeed suggested that an advertisement
about the institute should be put up in the news with EPB Logo. This, he believes, will
improve the credibility of the institute.
He also informed that although LPDC has been made part of NILT but the issue
of employees of former LPDC stands unresolved. Since some of the faculty at LPDC
specialized in leather technology is not available to LPDC, then the very purpose of
handing over of LPDC is not served. There is dire need of technical expertise at NITL for
product development and leather technology.He believes that if the NILT is strengthened
properly it can play a crucial role in the development of leather industry in the country let
alone Korangi Tanneries Zone.
CHAPTER 3
SUPPORT INSTITUTIONS
ASSOCIATIONS
1.PAKISTAN TANNERS ASSOCIATION:
PTA is the apex body of tanners & leather product manufacturers in the country. Its
membership consists of 249 members which is very low as compared to total strength of
the industry. Its members hail from different part in the country but majority are from
Karachi, Lahore, Sialkot, and Kasur. Its Headquarter is located in Karachi, with two
regional offices one at Lahore called PTA northern zone & one at Korangi Karachi,
called PTA southern zone. PTAs main thrust has been on securing maximum concessions
from the Central Government. It negotiates with Central and Provincial governments. It
also organizes International exhibition in collaboration with Export Promotion Bureau. It
has established National Institutes of Leather Technology and Combined Effluent Plant
in Korangi Leather Cluster with the help of Export Promotion Bureau. Although its
mandate includes holding of workshops & seminars to educate the exporters of leather
industry but it has less to show on this front.
2.PAKISTAN TANNERS ASSOCIATION -SOUTHERN ZONE:
The association working in Korangi Tanneries Zone in actually a part of Pakistan
Tanners Association, and is known as PTA southern zone. Its office is located in the
center of Korangi Tanneries Zone. It is a separate body different from PTA central. It
looks after the interest of tanners & manufacturers of Korangi Tanneries Zone. Most of
its energy is directed towards settling disputes between different government agencies
and individual tanners/exporters. It also settles disputes between different tanners of the
Zone. PTA southern zone is highly influenced by PTA central office because of more
influence of PTA central. It has also not enough to show on the side of skill development
in the zone. It manages the combined effluent treatment plant.
3.PAKISTAN LEATHER GARMENTS MANUFACTURERS EXPORTERS
ASSOCIAITON:
PLGMEA, has been recently established(2001). It represents Leather garments
manufacturers exporters in the country .It intends to highlight the problems of leather
garments manufacturers at relevant forum. Since it is a new body, there is very low
membership and is believed, in times to come this association will emerge as one of the
effective association in the industry. As such Pakistan’s more then 60% exports comprise
leather garments and leather goods.
4.PAKISTAN FOOTWEAR MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION:
PFMA, is located in Lahore, since the industry is mainly located in this city. Although
number of footwear manufacturers do exists in other cities of Pakistan also. The total
numbers of big and small & medium enterprises in the footwear sector may run in
hundreds but interestingly the total membership of this association is not more then 60.
This association has also got enough influence with the government since its is
dominated by big footwear manufacturers such as M/s. Services Industry, M/s.Bata
Industry M/s.Elegent Footwear industry. M/s.Topfit Ltd. etc. The association has largely
been concentrating on securing maximum incentives from the government. Its
membership could be increase substantially and this association can play a productive
role in the uplift of footwear industry in the country.
5.PAKISTAN GLOVES MANUFACTURERS EXPORTERS ASSOCATION:
As such leather gloves industry is largely concentrated in Sialkot, the PGMEA, has its
headquarter located in Sialkot. Its total membership is nearly 200. Most of its members
are from Sialkot. It represents manufacturers of wide variety of gloves including leather
gloves, sports gloves, industrial gloves, fancy gloves etc. The association like others
associations has been trying to get incentives from the government and to serve as a
bridge between exporters & the government.
6.FEDERATION OF PAKISTAN CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE INDUSTRY
Since its inception in 1950,the FPCCI has also advocated the collective opinion, concern
and aspiration of the private sector. It is the main trade body, which has a great say in the
policy matters with the Government. FPCCI serves as a bridge between the private sector
and the Government. FPCCI tackles efficiently various problems of Trade , Export,
Development, Industrialization and foreign Investment. All other associations are
registered in this forum.
7.MANUFACTURERS IN KORANGI TANNERY ZONE:
It is quite normal that a single manufacturers may be a member of two to three
association at a time in case of big units only.. Suppose a unit producing leather
garments, gloves and leather goods may be a member of PTA,PGMEA and PLGMEA
besides most of the big units in the leather industry are also members of Karachi
Chamber of Commerce &Industry as well as Federation of Pakistan Chamber of
Commerce & Industry. Big manufacturers of leather & leather goods have got
substantial influence in both the associations. Some time back Mr.S.M.Munir of M/s.Din
Leather, had also been Chairman, FPCC&I.
B.SUPPORT SERVICE INSTITUTIONS
1.COMBINED EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT (CEPT) KORANGI,
KARACHI AND ENVIRONMENT MANAGEMENT PROJECT.
The Pakistan Tanners Association(PTA)is the first industrial association that had realized
the need for controlling environmental pollution. PTA initiated its environmental
pollution control activities in early 90’s and organized numerous seminars and workshops
all over Pakistan on the subject. A Project document was prepared in 1993 for the
establishment of Combined Effluent Treatment Plant(CETP) for the Korangi Tannery
Cluster. Thus the stage was set for start of implementation on this project. The project has
a unique distinction of being the largest environmental project that was conceptualized,
initiated and is being implemented by the Private Sector. Because of its nature the project
serves as a model environmental project for the Industry in Pakistan.
PROJECT OBJECTIVES & SCOPE.
Objectives:
The project follows on integrated approach, and as such endeavors to find solutions to all
types of environmental problems associated with tanneries in Korangi Karachi. The key
objectives of the project are:
• To reduce pollution and in-turn control environmental degradation.
• To improve working conditions within tanneries.
• To reduce health hazards for area inhabitants.
Scope:
Following are the 6 components of the project.
• Setting up of a Combined Effluent Treatment Plant (CETP).
• Up gradation of the Effluent Collection & Conveyance System.
• Provision of Pre-treatment Facilities in Tanneries & in-house improvements
• Installation of Chromium Recovery & Re-use Plants in Tanneries.
• Setting up of Solid Waste Management Programme.
• Setting up of Occupational Health & Safety (OHS) Programme.
PROJECT FINANCING:
The Capital Cost of the project is estimated as Rs.521 million. Government of Pakistan is
mainly financing the project through Export development Fund(EDF), while the tanners
are also generating their share towards the Capital Cost. The Government of the
Netherlands is providing a technical Assistance Grant for designing of the project. The
Government of Sindh is also sharing the Cost in the form of Cost of Land.
INSTITUTIONAL FRAME WORK:
The PTA(S.Z) has a separate body by the name of PTA(S.Z) Environmental
Society(PTA-ES) which is responsible for the implementation and operation of the
project. The PTA-ES is headed by its Presidents and is managed by a Managing
Committee comprising of leading tanners of the area.
2.NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGY(NILT).
The National Institute of Leather Technology was established in 1998 jointly by PTA and
Export Promotion Bureau. National Institute of Leather Technology(NILT) is constructed
on 4.5 acres of land in Sector 7-A of Korangi Industrial Area amongst the largest cluster
of leather industries in Pakistan with all modern academic facilities.
NILT is under the academic and administrative control of a Board of Governors,
members of which are from Pakistan Tanners Association and a representative of EPB,
NILT has been established with assistance from Government of Pakistan out of EDF for
capital expenditurs to the tune of over Rs.70 million with additional financial, planning
and administrative inputs from Pakistan Tanners Association.
FOREIGN AFFILIATION & REGISTRATION:
Collaborative arrangement and accreditation is being negotiated with the British School
of Leather Technology Nene College, Northampton for Leather Technology.
NILT has been registered with Sindh Board of Technical Education for its Certificate and
Diploma Programs.
PHYSICAL & CHEMICAL TESTING FACILITIES:
Facilities:
National Institute of Leather technology(NILT), with its foreign trained and qualified
staff and modern facilities, offers the following Physical and Chemical Testing facilities
at most competitive rates: Other tests could be developed at NILT for the clients with the
help of official methods of analysis.
Academic Program:
Full Time Programs.
i) Leather Technology:
• One year Certificate Course(2 Semesters)
• Two Year Diploma course (4 Semesters)
ii) Leather Garments Technology:
• One year certificate course.
Part Time Programs:
• Fifteen days/One month Short course
(Fundamentals of Leather Technology).
For the personnel from a wide variety of backgrounds and who are already
involved in leather industry in various capacities.
• Short Course on Pattern Cutting/Stitching.
Services:
Job Work:
i) Samples Processing for tanners, chemical companies & exporters.
ii) Physical and chemical testing.
Other Services:
i) Holding seminars, symposiums, workshop etc.
ii) Research & Development in collaboration with relevant institutes & industries
3.SMALL BUSINESS FINANCE CORPORATION(SBFC)
SBFC was established by the Government of Pakistan in 1972 with the objective of
assisting small entrepreneurs for self-employment and setting up cottage industries. Over
the past three decades, SBFC has supported more than 85,000 entrepreneurs from all over
the country.
Recognizing the importance of small and medium enterprises (SMEs) and their role in
the economic development of Pakistan, SBFC is now focused towards supporting and
developing such enterprises. To enable it to do so effectively and efficiently, SBFC has
undertaken a major institutional restructuring and capacity building exercise. With a new
and professional management team in place, SBFC is now geared to meeting the
challenges of catering to the needs of the SME sector.
Whether it is the developed economy of the USA, Japan & Germany, or the developing
economies of Thailand and Malaysia, SMEs form the backbone of all economic
activities. An effective SME sector helps to achieve many socioeconomic objectives of a
country, i.e.:
• Provides low cost employment
• Assists in regional and local development
• Achieves fair and equitable distribution of wealth
• Is a key driver for value-added exports
• Assists in fostering a self help and entrepreneurial culture
VISION:
SBFC intends to become the premiere financial institution providing medium and long
term assistance (financial and technical) for the development of SMEs in Pakistan; thus
contributing to the growth of local entrepreneurs, developing export markets and
providing employment opportunities.
4. FINANCIAL INSTITUTIONS:
There exist a sound Network of financial institutions (Commercial Banks &
Development Financial Institutions). To cater the credit needs of the industry. State Bank
of Pakistan supports exporters through a scheme called export finance scheme. Under this
scheme exporters can avail through commercial banks export finance on concessionary
terms. The export finance under this scheme is availed by many exporters. However,
number of SMEs due to unawareness and documentary requirements do not avail this
scheme.
5. PAKISTAN COUNCIL FOR SCIENTIFIC & INDUSTRIAL RESEARCH
INSTITUTES:
PCSIR, is a national body having a highly qualified manpower in the field of research. It
develops technologies which have industrial uses. There is a small section within PCSIR
that conduct research on leather industry.
6.EXPORT PROMOTION BUREAU:
EPB, is the important national organization on trade promotion. It was established by the
government of Pakistan in 1963, as an attached department Ministry of Commerce, with
the objective of promotion & facilitation of sustainable growth in the quantum and value
of exports of goods and services.
FUNCTIONS OF EPB:
• Market research
• Fairs and exhibitions local and international
• Trade Delegations for exploring International Market
• Overseas publicity to create brand/country/product awareness
• Participation in trade related events
• Facilitation through Commercial Counsellor abroad
• Expo Centre-holding of international/local exhibitions
• Seminars/conferences/workshops to create awareness about export related
issues
FACILITATION:
• Face to face counseling
• Export Facilitation Committee-to resolve related problems
• Standardization & simplification of procedures
• Establish buyer-seller contacts
• Information dissemination through website/Fax-on-Demand/Pakistan Export
Information Bulletin
REGULATION:
• To Assist Government in formulation of export policies and setting of export
targets
• To monitor exports and implementation of export strategy
• To recommend establishment of export oriented industries
• Implementation of Trade Policy
• Textile Quota Management
• Registration of Importers/Exporters
• Determination of Quality related Benchmark Prices(Q.R.B.P) for rice.
• Issuance of GSP certificates.
ENHANCEMENT OF COMPETITIVE EDGE OF EXPORT SECTOR:
• Skill Development Council
• Establishment of training institutes for capacity development in sectors like
Textile, Leather, Surgical, Jewellery, etc.
• Seminars on export related issues
• ISO-9000 and 14000-helping industry to adopt the standards
• Create awareness about social issues such as Child Labor
TO ENSURE THE EFFECTIVENESS OF ITS SERVICES,E.P.B. HAS THE FOLLOWING
ELEVEN DIVISIONS/DIRECTORATE:
1. Human Resources, Finance & Administration Division
2. Supply-I Division
3. Supply-II Division
4. Geographical & regional Economic Groups Management Division
5. Communication Division
6. Planning, Procedures & International Division
7. Quota & Regulatory Management
8. Technical Skills Development & Export Development fund division
9. Information Technology Division
10. Marketing Division
11. Leather, Livestock and Poultry Directorate
7.PAKISTAN EXPORT FINANCE GUARANTEE AGENCY:
PEFG, has been established with an authorize capital of Rs.610 million. The Agency’s
objective is to provide a comprehensive range of export trade finance guarantees to
exporters, indirect exporters; of the their nominated representatives, focusing on Small
and Medium Sized Exporters (SMEs) and growth sectors. Exporters and indirect
exporters can face a slow-down in the process of credit access without any significant
collateral that fails to meet a financial institution’s rules of commercial acceptability.
Such a slow down is inefficient and hampers exporter’s ability to secure a deal. PEFG is
bridging this gap and allowing the constraint of collateral to be diminished.
8.CENTRAL BOARD OF REVENUE:
CBR is a central government department which formulates and implements taxes and
tariff policies of the country. The Central Board of revenue (CBR) by virtue of its ability
to control customs, excise, sales tax, income tax and other federal government revenue
collection agencies, has a very major impact on the proper development of the leather and
leather made ups industry. Infect without due support and understanding of the CBR, the
leather industry will not be able to play its targeted role.
9.SMALL & MEDIUM ENTERPRENEUR DEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY
The government of Pakistan, realizing the importance of SMEs and the need to provide a
focal institutions for them, established a high-powered Federal-level agency, The Small
and Medium enterprise Development authority(SMEDA), to take on the challenge of
developing SMEs in Pakistan.This organization mission statement is to Develop Small
and Medium Entrepreneurs in Pakistan. SMEDA provides various sports
services(technical managerial, marketing, etc.) to the SMEs it also place key role in
strengthenin the already existing SMEs support institutions in the public & private sector.
SMEDA also serves as one window information & support resource base for SMEs.
10.SIND SMALL INDUSTRIES CORPORATION
This is established in 1972 by the Sind Government. This is an official body committed
to promote the development of handicrafts and ensure the economic betterment of the
working craftsman. SIC not only provides education and assistance to working craftsman
in the field of designing and the quality control. SSIC has established various Display
Centers and Training Centers in the interior of Sind
LOCAL INSTITUTIONS:
There are number of other provincial institutes which have some kind of influence on the
leather industry. These includes Karachi Development authority, Karachi Metropolitan
Corporation, Labor Department. Better working coordination with these institutes will
facilitate the business activity of the Korangi Tanneries Zone.
CHAPTER 4
ANALYSIS OF INDUSTRY AND BUSSINESS OPERATIONS
1. Machinery
Some leather industrial machinery is being manufactured locally specially the one
required for tanning. However, most of the machinery is imported from Europeon
Country specially Italy and Spain. Imported machinery is basically used by big
manufacturing units and few medium size entrepreneurs. There is a need for
improvement of local machinery. This machinery is generally manufactured in
Lahore. Most of the machinery imported is reconditioned but effective,
2. CHEMICALS:
Tanneries consumed more then 20 twenty different type of chemicals in processing and
in large quantities. Therefore, all the leading manufacturers of the chemicals have their
units located in Karachi. These include BASF, Clariant, Bayer have their units located
within the proximity of Korangi Tanneries Zone. Besides there is a very good market of
chemical agents nearly 30-40 agents operating within the zone in a small cluster market
for chemical suppliers. There is a good number of private traders of chemicals operating
within the zone.
3. ANALYSIS OF BUSINESS OPERATION:
I. RAW MATERIAL-COMMISSION AGENTS/TRADERS ARE THE MAJOR SOURCE.
There is enough availability of raw material (raw hides & skins). The exist an old system
of collection and transportation. This business is dominated by commission
agents/traders. The manufacturers purchase their raw material needs from these
commission agents. The major markets for raw material procurement are major cities of
the country specially Lahore Kasur, Peshawar, Karachi,Hyderabad, Sukkur, Sialkot,
Gujranwala, Quetta. The tanneries normally purchase raw hides & skins form the
commission agents all over the country. There are 8 to 10 traders of raw hides & skins
who have their presence within Korangi Tanneries Zone and bulk of raw material is
supplied by them withon the zone.
II. PRODUCTS AND THEIR MARKET:
Semi finished leather
Most of the small tanneries process raw hides & skins to the level of semi finished leather
in the form of crust and wet blue. The production is sold mainly within the cluster but
also manufacturers in Sialkot, Lahore and other parts of Karachi. The buyers most of
them manufacturers finish the semi finished leather and use the same for product
manufacture for sale in the foreign market.
Finished Leather:
Other than forward integrated composite units, Very few units do the job till final
finishing. of the leather. Very few SME s do the job till finishing of leather and most of
them are jaob workers. Finished leather is also sold to the local market by SMEs. Buyers
are either product manufacturers and or traders who export their final product. Finished
leather is supplied from this zone all over the country. There are very few finished leather
manufacturers involved in export business. Export of finished leather is generally
dominated by traders.
III. CAPACITY UTILIZATION:
During survey most of the units visited were found operating low capacity. There
capacity can be enhanced if job work is found for them. Currently the SME componet of
the korangi cluster is operating at 50-60 percent of capacity.
IV. ENTREPRENEURIAL BACKGROUND, LABOUR AND TRAINING:
1. Most of the business in leather industry is family controlled. These
families have been in this business for long time and have got
experience in this field.
2. Labor involved in the industry is not properly trained but learns by
experience.
3. Very few big units employee trained skilled labor.
4. SMEs generally purchased raw material on credit and also sell on
credit.
5. Quality of machinery in tanning industry is old and normally
recondition.
6. The type of products manufactured in this zone mainly include leather
garments and gloves.
7. There is acute absence of coordination among industry and the
institutions related to human skills development for the industry.
ASSESMENT OF ORGANIZATION AND LINKAGES IN THE CLUSTER:
The SME component of the cluster remains under achiever they have hardly any say in
the affairs of the association they continue to be the suppliers to the local industry. There
is role for Networking and linkages among SMEs to enhance their productive capacities.
CHAPTER 5
SWOT ANALYSIS OF THE CLUSTER
STRENGTH
Easy availability of raw material
Management skills learned
through experience
Easy availability of labor
Presence of institutional supports
for technical,
services, designing, manpower
and marketing
Export market in Europe and
USA and far East
Export friendly government
policies
WEAKNESSES:
Insufficient level of modernization and technology
up gradation
Low labor productivity
Lack of confidence among SMEs for further growth
Lack of skilled labor
Environmental problems
Lack of market information(for SMEs)
OPPORTUNITIES:
Room for capacities utilization
Scope for bulk supply of finished
leather to big
Units.
Product diversification & new
markets
THREATS:
Competition from regional players such as china,
India, Turkey, Thailand, Indonesia etc.
New regulations of environmental and social
compliance
WTO regulations
CHAPTER 6
TENTATIVE ACTION PLAN
Korangi Tanneries Zone is an underachiever cluster with low capacity utilization and
narrow product range . Environmental pollution is a growing problem. Multifarious and
multidimensional interventions in the cluster will bring growth and dynamism in this
cluster. Following interventions are suggested for the cluster:
1. Networking among SMEs is possible but very difficult due to very
psychology of the people in the industry. Trust has to be built among SMEs
through practical steps such as export orders for the SMEs.
2. Although some finishing facilities do exist set up by job workers,
strengthening of the same and or setting of new common facility centre can be
of an added advantage. The common facility centre should consist of all
processes right from tanning to product making.
3. Creation of some consortiums for the purchase of raw material is also possible
. but like networking it also needs to based on mutual trust.
4. Strengthening of National Institute Of Leather Technology can play a
productive role in the growth of the cluster by providing skilled manpower to
the industry. The importance and necessity of skilled manpower and the role
of NILT needs to be highlighted among the entrepreneurs. More over the
Institute also needs to be strengthened in terms of equipment and trained
faculty.
5. SMEs need to be appraised of the availability of different service providers
especially Financial Instiutuions and possible contribution from them.
6. SMEs in the Cluster are very enthusiastic about the exports provided they get
export orders. Market information network for SMEs in the cluster may
provide market opportunities for the entrepreneur.
7. A series of workshops and seminars needs to be conducted to create
awareness and utility of each cluster actor
8. Financial implication of different interventions need to worked out
9. Possibility of foreign direct investment in the leather product sector should be
explored. This will infuse modern technology and an element of competition
in the cluster.
10. A project on Solid Waste Management in the Korangi Tanneries Zone shall be
the top priority.
Pakistan leather industry has established a waste water treatment plant in Karachi.
This treatment plant has been working for 4 years.Waste water treatment is a good environment policy of Korangi tanneries but there is still need for solid waste to manage which is very harmful for industries and also for employee of leather industries.
LEATHER INDUSTRY IN PAKISTAN
The leather industry in Pakistan has developed significantly over last fifty years.
At the time of independence, there were few tanneries; the exports were only minimal
and included only wet blue exports. The contribution to manufacturing GDP was
nominal.
Today, after 56 years down the road, leather industry has emerged as a robust
indigenous industry that is not only the second biggest export-oriented industry in the
manufacturing sector but also the second in overall exports of Pakistan. At present, it
adds 5% to manufacturing GDP and 7% to total exports. Besides, more than 200,000
people are employed by this sector.
Being an agricultural economy, Pakistan has a natural advantage in the area of
livestock population, which is the major input (Hides & Skins) of the industry. Estimated
livestock population comprises of cattle, 22million; Buffalo 23m; Sheep 24m and Goat
49million. At present, the country produces 7.8m Hides & 38m Skins per annum.
Although the local production of hides & skins used in the tanning industry has been
increasing, the supply has been insufficient to keep up with growing demand. Therefore,
industry has to import raw hides & skins from international market to keep its tanning
industry remaining. Pakistan imported 13.6 million worth of raw hides and skins in the
year 2002-2001.Hides and skins are mainly imported from Iran, Afghanistan, and Africa.
ESTIMATED LIVESTOCK POPULATION OF PAKISTAN.
(MILLION HEADS)
TYPE OF
LIVE
STOCK
1996 1997 1998 1999 2000
Cattle 20.8 21.2 21.6 22 22.4
Buffalo 20.8 21.4 22 22.7 23.3
Sheep 23.7 23.8 23.9 24.1 24.2
Goat 42.7 44.2 45.8 47.4 49.2
Pakistan’s leather industry has been export oriented for several decades. Until the
70s Pakistan exported raw hides & skins and semi processed leather in the form of
pickled, wet blue and crust leather. It was not until the early 80s that finished leather and
leather products became a major export earner, subsequently; the local supply of hides &
skins was fully utilized by the new tanneries that were being set up. Soon thereafter, a
liberal import policy encouraged the import of raw hides & skins.
The leather and leather product industry is concentrated mainly at Karachi, Kasur,
Sialkot, Gujranwala, Faisalabad, Multan & Peshawar. However the major clusters of
tanneries are located at Karachi (Korangi), Kasur & Sialkot. There are 784 tanneries, 461
leather garment units, 348 gloves manufacturing units and over 525 footwearmanufacturing
units the country. Leather industry produces fine quality products, which
include finished leather, leather footwear, garments, gloves and wide variety of leather
goods (hand bags, purses, suitcases, key chain, wallets, etc).
The industry promises a bright future given its established nature and increasing world
market opportunities. Industry needs to exploit this potential to its full extent by operating
at full capacity and realizing the world economic scenario represented by tough
competition, growing quality awareness and environmental and social concerns.
PAKISTAN’S LEATHER EXPORTS GROWTHS.
The leather industry is basically an export-oriented industry. Almost 100% of
leather garments and leather gloves are exported. However, only 4% of leather footwear
is exported & the rest is consumed locally.
Pakistan leather exports have grown substantially over last 35 years with
very few years (1981-83 & 1997-2000) of negative growth. The overall growth rate of
impressive 11% is hardly matched by any other traditional exportable product over this
period of time. The export figures have increased from 77mUS$ in 1978 to 693m US$
during 2000-2001. The change has occurred not only in volume but also in the
composition of items Just ten years ago in 1988-89, the exports of Leather & Leather
product were only 400m US$ & out of this the share of value added leather garments &
leather products was only 39%. In 1999-2000 the share of value added leather products
has increased to 68%. Performance of Pakistan’s leather and leather product exports for
last five years is given below:
PAKISTAN'S EXPORTS OF LEATHER & LEATHER PRODUCTS
(VALUE IN 000USD)
ITEMS. 1996-971997-98 1998-99 1999-2000 2000-2001
i) Leather Tanned 239,608 207,819 177,291 175,163 232,921
ii) Leather Gloves 18,887 27,242 26,270 29,839 37,332
iii) Apparel & Clothing of Leather 338,207 306,630 303,471 300,143 375,597
iv) Leather Manufactures n.s. 6,943 9,552 4,582 8,680 12,587
V)Leather Footwear 39,620 28,228 23,625 28,044 34,755
TOTAL: 643,265 579,471 535,239 541,869 693,192
MAIN MARKETS
The main markets for Pakistani leather and leather products include Europe,
America, Canada, japan, Saudi Arabia and the far eastern countries.
CHAPTER 2
KORANGI TANNERIES ZONE
INDUSTRY SCENARIO
1. There are nearly 150 Small & Medium Enterprises operating in Korangi
Tanneries Zone. However, the total number of units working in this zone is more than
170. About 5-6 thousand people are employed within the cluster. Total exports from this
cluster is about 25% of Pakistan’s total exports of leather & leather products. Most of the
SMEs are involved in tanning and finishing of the Raw hides & skins. These SMEs
purchase raw hides & skins from local market or from merchant traders on cash or
credit. Where as processed leather is sold on cash as well as on credit in the local market.
Most of time trade is done on credit basis.
- Most of the SMEs(nearly 100 units)operate on same lines..
- Most of such SMEs do not avail Export Finance due to religious reasons that
is involving interest obligations.
- While other SMEs are restrained by cumbersome procedures involved in bank
finance.
- Even some of small & medium sized enterprises are not aware of services
offered by EPB.
- Most of SMEs are also unaware of various institutions involved in the uplift
of the leather industry.
- Some of SMEs (7-10) are involved in job working.
- Few medium sized manufactures are involved in exports.
- Raw material processed and finished by SMEs is sold to big manufacturers in
the zone and other parts of Karachi and also sold to manufacturers in up
country (Sialkot and Lahore).
2. Most of the enterprises are dissatisfied with the services provided by govt.utility
providers like Pak Telecommunication, KMC, KDA, SBP (EFS), KESC, CBR, labor
department etc. That they receive higher/inflated bills from KESC and told about
frequent load shedding in the tanneries zone. This is seriously affecting their production
capacities and cost of production. The quality of reception of telephone lines was very
poor. This was practically observed by the undersigned. It was also reported that number
of lines were lying dead. This state of affairs was seriously affecting communication with
business partners within & outside the country.
3. The most pressing problem of the Korangi Tanneries Zone identified by all the
entrepreneurs was the possibility of cleanliness of the area. It was informed that no
foreign visitors can be invited to visit this area due to extreme dirtiness, very bad smell,
wastage on the roads & streets. Big exporters can afford to arrange meetings of their
buyers in five star hotels but it is not possible for the SMEs to do so. SMEs believe that if
this area is made clean then they will have also a chance to invite foreign buyers &
extend their export business. They believe that if this area is made clean worth moving
around then business opportunities will definitely increase. Combined effluent Treatment
Plant(CETP) is near completion, it is hoped this largely solve problem of disposal the
liquid effluent. However, the issue of solid waste management will still remain.
4. PTA (SZ) is poorly provided for disposal of solid waste management. Mr.Gulzar
Firoze ex Chairman, PTA & President environmental committee of Korangi Tanneries
zone told that disposal is the responsibility of KMC. KMC has never made an effort of
cleaning this area. Mr.Firoze thinks that if few more loaders are provided to PTA the
whole area can be cleaned.
5. NILT is the most prestigious institute for HR development in Karachi Tanneries
Zone. The institute offers various courses in Leather Technology. Prof.Saeed Siddiqui,
Director NILT, thinks that there is lack of awareness not only in the general public about
the nature of education & services provided by NILT but most people in industry are also
unaware about necessity of NILT & its development. He believes that importance of
NILT needs to be highlighted. If more & more people realize the need for the skilled
manpower NILT will be only solution it. Prof.Saeed suggested that an advertisement
about the institute should be put up in the news with EPB Logo. This, he believes, will
improve the credibility of the institute.
He also informed that although LPDC has been made part of NILT but the issue
of employees of former LPDC stands unresolved. Since some of the faculty at LPDC
specialized in leather technology is not available to LPDC, then the very purpose of
handing over of LPDC is not served. There is dire need of technical expertise at NITL for
product development and leather technology.He believes that if the NILT is strengthened
properly it can play a crucial role in the development of leather industry in the country let
alone Korangi Tanneries Zone.
CHAPTER 3
SUPPORT INSTITUTIONS
ASSOCIATIONS
1.PAKISTAN TANNERS ASSOCIATION:
PTA is the apex body of tanners & leather product manufacturers in the country. Its
membership consists of 249 members which is very low as compared to total strength of
the industry. Its members hail from different part in the country but majority are from
Karachi, Lahore, Sialkot, and Kasur. Its Headquarter is located in Karachi, with two
regional offices one at Lahore called PTA northern zone & one at Korangi Karachi,
called PTA southern zone. PTAs main thrust has been on securing maximum concessions
from the Central Government. It negotiates with Central and Provincial governments. It
also organizes International exhibition in collaboration with Export Promotion Bureau. It
has established National Institutes of Leather Technology and Combined Effluent Plant
in Korangi Leather Cluster with the help of Export Promotion Bureau. Although its
mandate includes holding of workshops & seminars to educate the exporters of leather
industry but it has less to show on this front.
2.PAKISTAN TANNERS ASSOCIATION -SOUTHERN ZONE:
The association working in Korangi Tanneries Zone in actually a part of Pakistan
Tanners Association, and is known as PTA southern zone. Its office is located in the
center of Korangi Tanneries Zone. It is a separate body different from PTA central. It
looks after the interest of tanners & manufacturers of Korangi Tanneries Zone. Most of
its energy is directed towards settling disputes between different government agencies
and individual tanners/exporters. It also settles disputes between different tanners of the
Zone. PTA southern zone is highly influenced by PTA central office because of more
influence of PTA central. It has also not enough to show on the side of skill development
in the zone. It manages the combined effluent treatment plant.
3.PAKISTAN LEATHER GARMENTS MANUFACTURERS EXPORTERS
ASSOCIAITON:
PLGMEA, has been recently established(2001). It represents Leather garments
manufacturers exporters in the country .It intends to highlight the problems of leather
garments manufacturers at relevant forum. Since it is a new body, there is very low
membership and is believed, in times to come this association will emerge as one of the
effective association in the industry. As such Pakistan’s more then 60% exports comprise
leather garments and leather goods.
4.PAKISTAN FOOTWEAR MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION:
PFMA, is located in Lahore, since the industry is mainly located in this city. Although
number of footwear manufacturers do exists in other cities of Pakistan also. The total
numbers of big and small & medium enterprises in the footwear sector may run in
hundreds but interestingly the total membership of this association is not more then 60.
This association has also got enough influence with the government since its is
dominated by big footwear manufacturers such as M/s. Services Industry, M/s.Bata
Industry M/s.Elegent Footwear industry. M/s.Topfit Ltd. etc. The association has largely
been concentrating on securing maximum incentives from the government. Its
membership could be increase substantially and this association can play a productive
role in the uplift of footwear industry in the country.
5.PAKISTAN GLOVES MANUFACTURERS EXPORTERS ASSOCATION:
As such leather gloves industry is largely concentrated in Sialkot, the PGMEA, has its
headquarter located in Sialkot. Its total membership is nearly 200. Most of its members
are from Sialkot. It represents manufacturers of wide variety of gloves including leather
gloves, sports gloves, industrial gloves, fancy gloves etc. The association like others
associations has been trying to get incentives from the government and to serve as a
bridge between exporters & the government.
6.FEDERATION OF PAKISTAN CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE INDUSTRY
Since its inception in 1950,the FPCCI has also advocated the collective opinion, concern
and aspiration of the private sector. It is the main trade body, which has a great say in the
policy matters with the Government. FPCCI serves as a bridge between the private sector
and the Government. FPCCI tackles efficiently various problems of Trade , Export,
Development, Industrialization and foreign Investment. All other associations are
registered in this forum.
7.MANUFACTURERS IN KORANGI TANNERY ZONE:
It is quite normal that a single manufacturers may be a member of two to three
association at a time in case of big units only.. Suppose a unit producing leather
garments, gloves and leather goods may be a member of PTA,PGMEA and PLGMEA
besides most of the big units in the leather industry are also members of Karachi
Chamber of Commerce &Industry as well as Federation of Pakistan Chamber of
Commerce & Industry. Big manufacturers of leather & leather goods have got
substantial influence in both the associations. Some time back Mr.S.M.Munir of M/s.Din
Leather, had also been Chairman, FPCC&I.
B.SUPPORT SERVICE INSTITUTIONS
1.COMBINED EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT (CEPT) KORANGI,
KARACHI AND ENVIRONMENT MANAGEMENT PROJECT.
The Pakistan Tanners Association(PTA)is the first industrial association that had realized
the need for controlling environmental pollution. PTA initiated its environmental
pollution control activities in early 90’s and organized numerous seminars and workshops
all over Pakistan on the subject. A Project document was prepared in 1993 for the
establishment of Combined Effluent Treatment Plant(CETP) for the Korangi Tannery
Cluster. Thus the stage was set for start of implementation on this project. The project has
a unique distinction of being the largest environmental project that was conceptualized,
initiated and is being implemented by the Private Sector. Because of its nature the project
serves as a model environmental project for the Industry in Pakistan.
PROJECT OBJECTIVES & SCOPE.
Objectives:
The project follows on integrated approach, and as such endeavors to find solutions to all
types of environmental problems associated with tanneries in Korangi Karachi. The key
objectives of the project are:
• To reduce pollution and in-turn control environmental degradation.
• To improve working conditions within tanneries.
• To reduce health hazards for area inhabitants.
Scope:
Following are the 6 components of the project.
• Setting up of a Combined Effluent Treatment Plant (CETP).
• Up gradation of the Effluent Collection & Conveyance System.
• Provision of Pre-treatment Facilities in Tanneries & in-house improvements
• Installation of Chromium Recovery & Re-use Plants in Tanneries.
• Setting up of Solid Waste Management Programme.
• Setting up of Occupational Health & Safety (OHS) Programme.
PROJECT FINANCING:
The Capital Cost of the project is estimated as Rs.521 million. Government of Pakistan is
mainly financing the project through Export development Fund(EDF), while the tanners
are also generating their share towards the Capital Cost. The Government of the
Netherlands is providing a technical Assistance Grant for designing of the project. The
Government of Sindh is also sharing the Cost in the form of Cost of Land.
INSTITUTIONAL FRAME WORK:
The PTA(S.Z) has a separate body by the name of PTA(S.Z) Environmental
Society(PTA-ES) which is responsible for the implementation and operation of the
project. The PTA-ES is headed by its Presidents and is managed by a Managing
Committee comprising of leading tanners of the area.
2.NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF LEATHER TECHNOLOGY(NILT).
The National Institute of Leather Technology was established in 1998 jointly by PTA and
Export Promotion Bureau. National Institute of Leather Technology(NILT) is constructed
on 4.5 acres of land in Sector 7-A of Korangi Industrial Area amongst the largest cluster
of leather industries in Pakistan with all modern academic facilities.
NILT is under the academic and administrative control of a Board of Governors,
members of which are from Pakistan Tanners Association and a representative of EPB,
NILT has been established with assistance from Government of Pakistan out of EDF for
capital expenditurs to the tune of over Rs.70 million with additional financial, planning
and administrative inputs from Pakistan Tanners Association.
FOREIGN AFFILIATION & REGISTRATION:
Collaborative arrangement and accreditation is being negotiated with the British School
of Leather Technology Nene College, Northampton for Leather Technology.
NILT has been registered with Sindh Board of Technical Education for its Certificate and
Diploma Programs.
PHYSICAL & CHEMICAL TESTING FACILITIES:
Facilities:
National Institute of Leather technology(NILT), with its foreign trained and qualified
staff and modern facilities, offers the following Physical and Chemical Testing facilities
at most competitive rates: Other tests could be developed at NILT for the clients with the
help of official methods of analysis.
Academic Program:
Full Time Programs.
i) Leather Technology:
• One year Certificate Course(2 Semesters)
• Two Year Diploma course (4 Semesters)
ii) Leather Garments Technology:
• One year certificate course.
Part Time Programs:
• Fifteen days/One month Short course
(Fundamentals of Leather Technology).
For the personnel from a wide variety of backgrounds and who are already
involved in leather industry in various capacities.
• Short Course on Pattern Cutting/Stitching.
Services:
Job Work:
i) Samples Processing for tanners, chemical companies & exporters.
ii) Physical and chemical testing.
Other Services:
i) Holding seminars, symposiums, workshop etc.
ii) Research & Development in collaboration with relevant institutes & industries
3.SMALL BUSINESS FINANCE CORPORATION(SBFC)
SBFC was established by the Government of Pakistan in 1972 with the objective of
assisting small entrepreneurs for self-employment and setting up cottage industries. Over
the past three decades, SBFC has supported more than 85,000 entrepreneurs from all over
the country.
Recognizing the importance of small and medium enterprises (SMEs) and their role in
the economic development of Pakistan, SBFC is now focused towards supporting and
developing such enterprises. To enable it to do so effectively and efficiently, SBFC has
undertaken a major institutional restructuring and capacity building exercise. With a new
and professional management team in place, SBFC is now geared to meeting the
challenges of catering to the needs of the SME sector.
Whether it is the developed economy of the USA, Japan & Germany, or the developing
economies of Thailand and Malaysia, SMEs form the backbone of all economic
activities. An effective SME sector helps to achieve many socioeconomic objectives of a
country, i.e.:
• Provides low cost employment
• Assists in regional and local development
• Achieves fair and equitable distribution of wealth
• Is a key driver for value-added exports
• Assists in fostering a self help and entrepreneurial culture
VISION:
SBFC intends to become the premiere financial institution providing medium and long
term assistance (financial and technical) for the development of SMEs in Pakistan; thus
contributing to the growth of local entrepreneurs, developing export markets and
providing employment opportunities.
4. FINANCIAL INSTITUTIONS:
There exist a sound Network of financial institutions (Commercial Banks &
Development Financial Institutions). To cater the credit needs of the industry. State Bank
of Pakistan supports exporters through a scheme called export finance scheme. Under this
scheme exporters can avail through commercial banks export finance on concessionary
terms. The export finance under this scheme is availed by many exporters. However,
number of SMEs due to unawareness and documentary requirements do not avail this
scheme.
5. PAKISTAN COUNCIL FOR SCIENTIFIC & INDUSTRIAL RESEARCH
INSTITUTES:
PCSIR, is a national body having a highly qualified manpower in the field of research. It
develops technologies which have industrial uses. There is a small section within PCSIR
that conduct research on leather industry.
6.EXPORT PROMOTION BUREAU:
EPB, is the important national organization on trade promotion. It was established by the
government of Pakistan in 1963, as an attached department Ministry of Commerce, with
the objective of promotion & facilitation of sustainable growth in the quantum and value
of exports of goods and services.
FUNCTIONS OF EPB:
• Market research
• Fairs and exhibitions local and international
• Trade Delegations for exploring International Market
• Overseas publicity to create brand/country/product awareness
• Participation in trade related events
• Facilitation through Commercial Counsellor abroad
• Expo Centre-holding of international/local exhibitions
• Seminars/conferences/workshops to create awareness about export related
issues
FACILITATION:
• Face to face counseling
• Export Facilitation Committee-to resolve related problems
• Standardization & simplification of procedures
• Establish buyer-seller contacts
• Information dissemination through website/Fax-on-Demand/Pakistan Export
Information Bulletin
REGULATION:
• To Assist Government in formulation of export policies and setting of export
targets
• To monitor exports and implementation of export strategy
• To recommend establishment of export oriented industries
• Implementation of Trade Policy
• Textile Quota Management
• Registration of Importers/Exporters
• Determination of Quality related Benchmark Prices(Q.R.B.P) for rice.
• Issuance of GSP certificates.
ENHANCEMENT OF COMPETITIVE EDGE OF EXPORT SECTOR:
• Skill Development Council
• Establishment of training institutes for capacity development in sectors like
Textile, Leather, Surgical, Jewellery, etc.
• Seminars on export related issues
• ISO-9000 and 14000-helping industry to adopt the standards
• Create awareness about social issues such as Child Labor
TO ENSURE THE EFFECTIVENESS OF ITS SERVICES,E.P.B. HAS THE FOLLOWING
ELEVEN DIVISIONS/DIRECTORATE:
1. Human Resources, Finance & Administration Division
2. Supply-I Division
3. Supply-II Division
4. Geographical & regional Economic Groups Management Division
5. Communication Division
6. Planning, Procedures & International Division
7. Quota & Regulatory Management
8. Technical Skills Development & Export Development fund division
9. Information Technology Division
10. Marketing Division
11. Leather, Livestock and Poultry Directorate
7.PAKISTAN EXPORT FINANCE GUARANTEE AGENCY:
PEFG, has been established with an authorize capital of Rs.610 million. The Agency’s
objective is to provide a comprehensive range of export trade finance guarantees to
exporters, indirect exporters; of the their nominated representatives, focusing on Small
and Medium Sized Exporters (SMEs) and growth sectors. Exporters and indirect
exporters can face a slow-down in the process of credit access without any significant
collateral that fails to meet a financial institution’s rules of commercial acceptability.
Such a slow down is inefficient and hampers exporter’s ability to secure a deal. PEFG is
bridging this gap and allowing the constraint of collateral to be diminished.
8.CENTRAL BOARD OF REVENUE:
CBR is a central government department which formulates and implements taxes and
tariff policies of the country. The Central Board of revenue (CBR) by virtue of its ability
to control customs, excise, sales tax, income tax and other federal government revenue
collection agencies, has a very major impact on the proper development of the leather and
leather made ups industry. Infect without due support and understanding of the CBR, the
leather industry will not be able to play its targeted role.
9.SMALL & MEDIUM ENTERPRENEUR DEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY
The government of Pakistan, realizing the importance of SMEs and the need to provide a
focal institutions for them, established a high-powered Federal-level agency, The Small
and Medium enterprise Development authority(SMEDA), to take on the challenge of
developing SMEs in Pakistan.This organization mission statement is to Develop Small
and Medium Entrepreneurs in Pakistan. SMEDA provides various sports
services(technical managerial, marketing, etc.) to the SMEs it also place key role in
strengthenin the already existing SMEs support institutions in the public & private sector.
SMEDA also serves as one window information & support resource base for SMEs.
10.SIND SMALL INDUSTRIES CORPORATION
This is established in 1972 by the Sind Government. This is an official body committed
to promote the development of handicrafts and ensure the economic betterment of the
working craftsman. SIC not only provides education and assistance to working craftsman
in the field of designing and the quality control. SSIC has established various Display
Centers and Training Centers in the interior of Sind
LOCAL INSTITUTIONS:
There are number of other provincial institutes which have some kind of influence on the
leather industry. These includes Karachi Development authority, Karachi Metropolitan
Corporation, Labor Department. Better working coordination with these institutes will
facilitate the business activity of the Korangi Tanneries Zone.
CHAPTER 4
ANALYSIS OF INDUSTRY AND BUSSINESS OPERATIONS
1. Machinery
Some leather industrial machinery is being manufactured locally specially the one
required for tanning. However, most of the machinery is imported from Europeon
Country specially Italy and Spain. Imported machinery is basically used by big
manufacturing units and few medium size entrepreneurs. There is a need for
improvement of local machinery. This machinery is generally manufactured in
Lahore. Most of the machinery imported is reconditioned but effective,
2. CHEMICALS:
Tanneries consumed more then 20 twenty different type of chemicals in processing and
in large quantities. Therefore, all the leading manufacturers of the chemicals have their
units located in Karachi. These include BASF, Clariant, Bayer have their units located
within the proximity of Korangi Tanneries Zone. Besides there is a very good market of
chemical agents nearly 30-40 agents operating within the zone in a small cluster market
for chemical suppliers. There is a good number of private traders of chemicals operating
within the zone.
3. ANALYSIS OF BUSINESS OPERATION:
I. RAW MATERIAL-COMMISSION AGENTS/TRADERS ARE THE MAJOR SOURCE.
There is enough availability of raw material (raw hides & skins). The exist an old system
of collection and transportation. This business is dominated by commission
agents/traders. The manufacturers purchase their raw material needs from these
commission agents. The major markets for raw material procurement are major cities of
the country specially Lahore Kasur, Peshawar, Karachi,Hyderabad, Sukkur, Sialkot,
Gujranwala, Quetta. The tanneries normally purchase raw hides & skins form the
commission agents all over the country. There are 8 to 10 traders of raw hides & skins
who have their presence within Korangi Tanneries Zone and bulk of raw material is
supplied by them withon the zone.
II. PRODUCTS AND THEIR MARKET:
Semi finished leather
Most of the small tanneries process raw hides & skins to the level of semi finished leather
in the form of crust and wet blue. The production is sold mainly within the cluster but
also manufacturers in Sialkot, Lahore and other parts of Karachi. The buyers most of
them manufacturers finish the semi finished leather and use the same for product
manufacture for sale in the foreign market.
Finished Leather:
Other than forward integrated composite units, Very few units do the job till final
finishing. of the leather. Very few SME s do the job till finishing of leather and most of
them are jaob workers. Finished leather is also sold to the local market by SMEs. Buyers
are either product manufacturers and or traders who export their final product. Finished
leather is supplied from this zone all over the country. There are very few finished leather
manufacturers involved in export business. Export of finished leather is generally
dominated by traders.
III. CAPACITY UTILIZATION:
During survey most of the units visited were found operating low capacity. There
capacity can be enhanced if job work is found for them. Currently the SME componet of
the korangi cluster is operating at 50-60 percent of capacity.
IV. ENTREPRENEURIAL BACKGROUND, LABOUR AND TRAINING:
1. Most of the business in leather industry is family controlled. These
families have been in this business for long time and have got
experience in this field.
2. Labor involved in the industry is not properly trained but learns by
experience.
3. Very few big units employee trained skilled labor.
4. SMEs generally purchased raw material on credit and also sell on
credit.
5. Quality of machinery in tanning industry is old and normally
recondition.
6. The type of products manufactured in this zone mainly include leather
garments and gloves.
7. There is acute absence of coordination among industry and the
institutions related to human skills development for the industry.
ASSESMENT OF ORGANIZATION AND LINKAGES IN THE CLUSTER:
The SME component of the cluster remains under achiever they have hardly any say in
the affairs of the association they continue to be the suppliers to the local industry. There
is role for Networking and linkages among SMEs to enhance their productive capacities.
CHAPTER 5
SWOT ANALYSIS OF THE CLUSTER
STRENGTH
Easy availability of raw material
Management skills learned
through experience
Easy availability of labor
Presence of institutional supports
for technical,
services, designing, manpower
and marketing
Export market in Europe and
USA and far East
Export friendly government
policies
WEAKNESSES:
Insufficient level of modernization and technology
up gradation
Low labor productivity
Lack of confidence among SMEs for further growth
Lack of skilled labor
Environmental problems
Lack of market information(for SMEs)
OPPORTUNITIES:
Room for capacities utilization
Scope for bulk supply of finished
leather to big
Units.
Product diversification & new
markets
THREATS:
Competition from regional players such as china,
India, Turkey, Thailand, Indonesia etc.
New regulations of environmental and social
compliance
WTO regulations
CHAPTER 6
TENTATIVE ACTION PLAN
Korangi Tanneries Zone is an underachiever cluster with low capacity utilization and
narrow product range . Environmental pollution is a growing problem. Multifarious and
multidimensional interventions in the cluster will bring growth and dynamism in this
cluster. Following interventions are suggested for the cluster:
1. Networking among SMEs is possible but very difficult due to very
psychology of the people in the industry. Trust has to be built among SMEs
through practical steps such as export orders for the SMEs.
2. Although some finishing facilities do exist set up by job workers,
strengthening of the same and or setting of new common facility centre can be
of an added advantage. The common facility centre should consist of all
processes right from tanning to product making.
3. Creation of some consortiums for the purchase of raw material is also possible
. but like networking it also needs to based on mutual trust.
4. Strengthening of National Institute Of Leather Technology can play a
productive role in the growth of the cluster by providing skilled manpower to
the industry. The importance and necessity of skilled manpower and the role
of NILT needs to be highlighted among the entrepreneurs. More over the
Institute also needs to be strengthened in terms of equipment and trained
faculty.
5. SMEs need to be appraised of the availability of different service providers
especially Financial Instiutuions and possible contribution from them.
6. SMEs in the Cluster are very enthusiastic about the exports provided they get
export orders. Market information network for SMEs in the cluster may
provide market opportunities for the entrepreneur.
7. A series of workshops and seminars needs to be conducted to create
awareness and utility of each cluster actor
8. Financial implication of different interventions need to worked out
9. Possibility of foreign direct investment in the leather product sector should be
explored. This will infuse modern technology and an element of competition
in the cluster.
10. A project on Solid Waste Management in the Korangi Tanneries Zone shall be
the top priority.
Saturday, August 22, 2009
Finishing defects
Sedimentation
causes: Pigment finishes, lacquer emulsions and mixed finishing products are multi component systems with different specific weights of the single components.During storage the components having specific weight sediment and stick firmly together.
Remedy: basically, the product should be thoroughly stirred in the containers before use. Failure to do so results in a greatly varying concentration. This lead to a variable content of solids in the finishing float and to a more or less significant difference in shade in pigment finishes. In the case of binder, film formation is impaired which reduces the fastness properties. A suitable solvent in solution during mixing is helpful to avoid this problem.
Separation of layers
Causes: mixed product containing components with different charges charge could be anionic with mixing cationic and emulsified system can break and result in phase separation into two or more layers.
Remedy
The product should be stirred well in the containers before use. Absolute homogeneity of the product is important; otherwise it should not be used.
Coagulation
Causes: finishing product on an aqueous basis and especially thermoplastic binder are susceptible to the cold. Irreversible coagulation is caused by frost. Damaged products cannot be used any more and should be disposed of.
Remedy
It is absolutely necessary to protect the product against cold during transportation and storage. Many products is stable at specific temperature if temperature is varied the product could be changed in character.
causes: Pigment finishes, lacquer emulsions and mixed finishing products are multi component systems with different specific weights of the single components.During storage the components having specific weight sediment and stick firmly together.
Remedy: basically, the product should be thoroughly stirred in the containers before use. Failure to do so results in a greatly varying concentration. This lead to a variable content of solids in the finishing float and to a more or less significant difference in shade in pigment finishes. In the case of binder, film formation is impaired which reduces the fastness properties. A suitable solvent in solution during mixing is helpful to avoid this problem.
Separation of layers
Causes: mixed product containing components with different charges charge could be anionic with mixing cationic and emulsified system can break and result in phase separation into two or more layers.
Remedy
The product should be stirred well in the containers before use. Absolute homogeneity of the product is important; otherwise it should not be used.
Coagulation
Causes: finishing product on an aqueous basis and especially thermoplastic binder are susceptible to the cold. Irreversible coagulation is caused by frost. Damaged products cannot be used any more and should be disposed of.
Remedy
It is absolutely necessary to protect the product against cold during transportation and storage. Many products is stable at specific temperature if temperature is varied the product could be changed in character.
Sunday, August 16, 2009
Suede Leather
This desighnation refers to all leathers which have been given an even, rough or velevety fiber quality on the back(flesh or split side) by repeating buffing.This velvet is kept short-fibred or long-fibred depending on the requirement of fashion. Cow-hide suede leather with grain side is also called hunting-suede, suede calf leather with grain side is known as velvet calf. The common German term “Wildleder” is not correct as a general name for all suede leather because it strictly refers only all suede leathers obtained from the skin of red deer, chamois, elks, reindeer, buffalo, antelopes, gazelles or kangaroos.
Raw stock
Cow hides, horse hides, pig skin, calf skin, and goat skin (mostly used for suede in Pakistan) and less frequently sheep skin.
Requirement for production
Suede leathers are mainly manufactured by chrome tanning. They receive special retannages, always depending on the requirements, to improve buffing properties fullness, handle and to achieve even dying properties. The products used are chrome and aluminum tanning agent, zirconium tanning agents, glutaraldehyde, and resin tanning agents or synthetic condensation product. The conventional method of production includes retanning and light fatliquoring with intermediate drying. After buffing the leather is wetted back dyed and the remaining amount of fat liquor is added to save labor and time suede leathers are nowadays mostly manufactured by direct processing. The low brilliance as a result of buffing after dying is corrected by a luster finish.
Saturday, August 15, 2009
properties of leather compared to synthethtic substitute materials
Repeated attempts have been made to replace leather, with its special property, exclusively by synthetic substitute material. With some exceptions such as the technical or some garment leather, bag leathers, bag leathers and the leather for shoe underside construction, the laregest consumer market, i.e for shoe upper leather, has not been succeeded in finding an adequate substitue despite all efforts.
in jenral, the following factors determine the outstanding properties of the '' natural product leather'' compared to synthetic substitute materials.
- the enormous
Friday, August 14, 2009
the most important quality requirements for shoe lining leather
test--------------requirements
-------------------------rub cycles----aniline leather----finished
-------------------------rub cycles----aniline leather----finished
rub fastness
leather, dry/test fabric, dry----100----->rating4-------->rating4
leather, dry/test fabric wet------- -50--------->rating 4-------->rating 4
Leather, wet/test fabric, dry--------50------->rating 3---------> rating 4
Leather, dry/test fabric with --------20------>rating 3--------> rating4
solution pH 9.0---------20------->rating 3------>rating
, dry/test fabric with benzene ---20--------no----------staining
Tannery work process steps one by one
Tannery flow chart
Raw material ►Raw trimming
Soaking
The first step of leather production restoration of water content up to 65% in salted, dry salted or dried skin and make it softer and flexible removal of dung , dirt and non wanted protein.
Liming
Opening up the skin structure to plump the collagen protein fibers bundle by mean of lime. Removal of hair and epidermis layer.
Mechanical process ►fleshing by mean of fleshing machine
flesh removed which consist of fat and nonwanted in next process
After liming Deliming is the process to remove the chemically bonded lime. Non bonded lime is also removed through ammonium sulphite and other Deliming agents.
Bating
It effect a further opening up of the collagen fibers, depleting of the skin material, loosening of scud and scurf and splitting of the natural fat by the presence of lipases.
Degreasing
To remove a high content of natural fat, especially in sheep and lamb skins, some kind of goat skin, pig skin and many hides.
Pickling
The pelt is acidified to a pH<3.8>
Tanning
Chrome tanning
A process which cross-linked with the collagen protein through different types of bond without modifying the natural fibers texture. This is carried out by means of chrome salts mostly chrome sulphite is used.
Wet blue
Chrome-tanned wet leather designated “wet blue”.
Vegetable/ synthetic tanning
The leather is tanned by means of natural tanning material which has the ability to bond with collagen protein like mimosa, quebracho, and chestnut.
Wet blue or vegetable crust storage
Damp storage
Upon completion of the tanning process the leather is intermediately stored on trestles or pallets for at least 24 hours.
Vegetable tanned leather are washed or preferably soaked upon completion of the tanning process in order to remove the considerable excess of unbound tanning agents, from the grain layer.
Production of natural or dyed crust
Direct dyeing ------indirect dyeing
Direct dyeing
It is carried out by shaving wetblue leather after saming setting and wieghing it to proceed for drum dying process. low cost less labour and mechanical work required. Quality of leather may varies from indirect process.
Indirect dying
1st making natural crust and than dying more time, labour and mechanical cost. The quality of leather is camparativly good to direct dying after dyeing leather is proceeded for dry most common method for drying is hang dry or air dry which is cheap.
finishing
This is last step of leather making finish leather mean leather is prepared for final use either for garment or footwear. Finish is done to give the leather desire attraction and look its shining effect and beauty.
Tannery work process steps one by one
Tannery flow chart
Raw material ►Raw trimming
Soaking
The first step of leather production restoration of water content up to 65% in salted, dry salted or dried skin and make it softer and flexible removal of dung , dirt and non wanted protein.
Liming
Opening up the skin structure to plump the collagen protein fibers bundle by mean of lime. Removal of hair and epidermis layer.
Mechanical process ►fleshing by mean of fleshing machine
Deliming
After liming Deliming is the process to remove the chemically bonded lime. Non bonded lime is also removed through ammonium sulphite and other Deliming agents.
Bating
It effect a further opening up of the collagen fibers, depleting of the skin material, loosening of scud and scurf and splitting of the natural fat by the presence of lipases.
Degreasing
To remove a high content of natural fat, especially in sheep and lamb skins, some kind of goat skin, pig skin and many hides.
Pickling
The pelt is acidified to a pH<3.8 color="#cc0000" size="4">Tanning
1. Chrome tanning 2. Vegetable tanning
Chrome tanning
A process which cross-linked with the collagen protein through different types of bond without modifying the natural fibers texture. This is carried out by means of chrome salts mostly chrome sulphite is used.
Wet blue
Chrome-tanned wet leather designated “wet blue”.
Vegetable/ synthetic tanning
The leather is tanned by means of natural tanning material which has the ability to bond with collagen protein like mimosa, quebracho, and chestnut.
Wet blue or vegetable crust storage
Damp storage
Upon completion of the tanning process the leather is intermediately stored on trestles or pallets for at least 24 hours.
Vegetable tanned leather are washed or preferably soaked upon completion of the tanning process in order to remove the considerable excess of unbound tanning agents, from the grain layer.
Raw material ►Raw trimming
Soaking
The first step of leather production restoration of water content up to 65% in salted, dry salted or dried skin and make it softer and flexible removal of dung , dirt and non wanted protein.
Liming
Opening up the skin structure to plump the collagen protein fibers bundle by mean of lime. Removal of hair and epidermis layer.
Mechanical process ►fleshing by mean of fleshing machine
Deliming
After liming Deliming is the process to remove the chemically bonded lime. Non bonded lime is also removed through ammonium sulphite and other Deliming agents.
Bating
It effect a further opening up of the collagen fibers, depleting of the skin material, loosening of scud and scurf and splitting of the natural fat by the presence of lipases.
Degreasing
To remove a high content of natural fat, especially in sheep and lamb skins, some kind of goat skin, pig skin and many hides.
Pickling
The pelt is acidified to a pH<3.8 color="#cc0000" size="4">Tanning
1. Chrome tanning 2. Vegetable tanning
Chrome tanning
A process which cross-linked with the collagen protein through different types of bond without modifying the natural fibers texture. This is carried out by means of chrome salts mostly chrome sulphite is used.
Wet blue
Chrome-tanned wet leather designated “wet blue”.
Vegetable/ synthetic tanning
The leather is tanned by means of natural tanning material which has the ability to bond with collagen protein like mimosa, quebracho, and chestnut.
Wet blue or vegetable crust storage
Damp storage
Upon completion of the tanning process the leather is intermediately stored on trestles or pallets for at least 24 hours.
Vegetable tanned leather are washed or preferably soaked upon completion of the tanning process in order to remove the considerable excess of unbound tanning agents, from the grain layer.
types of dying
direct dying ----------------indirect dying
cheap and low labou expansive more mechanical nad labour cost
and mechanical cost less good quality
time taken low quality
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Made in Pakistan
Leather product made by Pakistan
Leather gloves
Pakistan is at the second place in leather gloves manufacturing each kind of gloves are made.
Working leather gloves
These are the gloves that are large in size and mostly made on crust leather not finish required
Only crust are dyed to make all color range of gloves. These are used in working with heavy machinery and equipment.
Leather gloves
Pakistan is at the second place in leather gloves manufacturing each kind of gloves are made.
Working leather gloves
These are the gloves that are large in size and mostly made on crust leather not finish required
Only crust are dyed to make all color range of gloves. These are used in working with heavy machinery and equipment.
Karachi is main city for leather gloves manufacturing and after that Sialkot stand at 2nd place fro leather gloves
Leather garment
leather jacket Pakistan are making all kind of wearing
jacket in modren fashion and color colloection.Garment industry exporting thier product to Eurpe and America.
pakistan leather industry is now producing ladies dress wearing as top and brazer which is world wide liked
leather hand bag Pakistan also producing high quality leather hand bag for ladies use.leather hand bag contain good color and fashion style more infromation availbale at http://www.afleather..com/
- finished leather to export for varoius uses.
src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js">
Tuesday, August 4, 2009
Finishing of leather
Finishing
the final stage of leather production i s reached with the finishing process.these treatment have the purpose of making the leather usable and suitable for the manufature of end of products.
properties of finished leather
Curtain coating finishing
These finishes are applied by means of the overflow or slot-type curtain coater. Mostly used for leather which need a high covering top coat such as corrected grain leather or split. It is used to cover more visible leather defects which come from beam house.
Roll coating finish
In this type of finishing the coat is applied to obtain effect finishes by mean of screen rolls or engraved pattern rolls. A different kind of finishing effect is obtain by this method more attractive finish and less quantity of chemical is used.
the final stage of leather production i s reached with the finishing process.these treatment have the purpose of making the leather usable and suitable for the manufature of end of products.
properties of finished leather
- Desired fashionable shade in transparent ,covering or effect finishes.
- High-glass ,semimatt or matt topcoat.
- Dry, waxy greasy or blunt surface handle.
- Leveling of stain patches and grian defects.
- Protection against soiling, moistur and processing chemical,to keep non puterfied, protection against chemical used in the manufature of end products.
- Application of a fully covering artificial grain layer to spilts and corrected grain leathers.
- Structure of finishes (schematic)
The finish consists of basically three coats:
1.Base coat -----2. middle coat (pigment coat) ----3. top coat
These coat considerably apply but not essentially applied the application depend on article (type of leather) you are going to produce. It is possible to choose intermediate stages or to apply the top coat on its own. Basically softer products are chosen for the bottom layers and harder and more resistant products for the final caot.
Aniline leather---Samianiline ---rainlleather---corrected grain leather---split leather
---------------top coat-----------top coat --------top coat -----top or film
top coat------transparent pig.coat--pig.coat----covring.pig.coat---covring pig.coat
aniline dying--light color base coat---covring base coat----impregnation&base coat---thick covring base coat
Curtain coating finishing
These finishes are applied by means of the overflow or slot-type curtain coater. Mostly used for leather which need a high covering top coat such as corrected grain leather or split. It is used to cover more visible leather defects which come from beam house.
Roll coating finish
In this type of finishing the coat is applied to obtain effect finishes by mean of screen rolls or engraved pattern rolls. A different kind of finishing effect is obtain by this method more attractive finish and less quantity of chemical is used.
Orthopaedic leather
Orthopaedics leathers
Orthopaedic leather is a collective name for all kind of leathers which are employed for orthopaedic purpose. They are made from the most different group of leather. As these leathers are constantly in contact with the human skin and therefore require lasting durability ,special quality guideline have been set up and should be strictly observed by the manufacturer
the most important quality requirements for the orthopaedic leather
Monday, August 3, 2009
Depilation or opening up the skin(liming)
the type concentration and duration of immersion of the depilation methods as well as of the liming and sulphiding chemicals influence the future properties of the leather with regard to softness and strength.
Control of liming process
Analytical
1. Determination of total alkalinity.
2. Determination of sulphide sulphur.
3. Determination of efficient alkalinity.
4. Determination of ammonia content, particularly recommended when using a recirculation liming process. If the content is too high, the liquor should be changed.
Test of the liming chemicals
Analytical
1. Determination of purity and concentration should always be performed as an incoming inspection, in particular if suppliers change, in order to ensure a uniform process.
2. Determination of the iron content of sulphides and hydrosulphides. The cheapest products tend to contain high quantities, which cause blue-black iron sulphide liming stains.
Lime painting methods
Painting on the flesh side
Good draining of the soaked raw stock and a lime paint consistency that is not too thin are necessary to obtain an impeccable wool quality without defects. Liming paste is usually prepared by making solution of sodium sulphide and lime in additionally china clay is added to viscous the paste.
Grain lime painting (drum painting, Darmstadt through feed method)
Especially suitable for sensitive hides with prominent growth marks and or very flat substance gives smooth pelts without wrinkled or loosed grain.
Liming methods
Pure hydrated lime pit depending on the raw stock hair loosening occurs in 6 10 days with good opening up of the skin. If using slaked lime check for insoluble components which can damage the grain. Old lime liquors tend to contain uncontrollable decomposition products which may result in increased microbial activity and thus cause loose grain, greater loss of skin substance or spongy leathers .however; in these old lime liquors the hair loosening effect is more intensive then in freshly prepared limes.
If the lime pit is used for reliming, the slipperiness of the pelts caused by sulphide lime liquors is reduced and thus a drifting of the skin in the splitting machine is avoided. Furthermore, it is used to improve opening up of the skin.
Pure sulphide lime pit
Mainly used for the goat skins to produce fine-pored, crack-resistant chevreaux leathers. Also used for veal skins or small cattle skins to obtain nubuk and suede leathers with a tight fibers texture. This method is also chosen for rapid hair loosening, poor opening up of the skin and to ensure the yield.
Sulphide/hydrated lime pit
Still the most commonly used liming method for leather production. Lime liquor concentration with over 0.2% Na2 S
Cause damage to the hair, more than 0.5 % Na2 S will destroy the hair (however, the amount of liquor, temperature and the ratio of hair coat to skin substance are influencing factors). If the pH value is below 11.0 the hair is not attacked or loosened up.
Any desired liming effect can be achieved by adjusting the parameters: proportioning and concentration of chemicals, amount of liquor, temperature, drumming intensity, duration and also the preliminary soaking method.
Sulphydrate/hydrated lime pit
Pure NaSH solution does not result in depilation. Only the addition of Ca (OH) 2 or NaOH achieves a similar effect to that of sulphide lime. This liming process causes a slight swelling of the pelts, reduces the accentuation of growth marks, grooves and wrinkleness. The fact that the leather are flatter and firmer has to be taken into account in the subsequent processing steps.
Sulphide/sulphydryl/compounds
A method which is gradually being used more often. Excessive lime swelling is reduced by replacing sulphide with Sulphydrate, however, only if the content of NaSH prevails. An initial addition of NaSH is also advantage.
Organic sulphydryl compounds
The most commonly used compounds are hydroxymercaptans or thioalcohols, especially 2-mercapto ethanol as alkali salt. They have a very high further oxidation speed and therefore do not contaminate the waste water and the waste water treatment plants. If they are used alone, rapid mixing in the lime pit is necessary. Due to their higher price they are mostly used with a low content of sulphide. These lime liquors lead to even less swelling than the use of Sulphydrate and thus to a good area yield.
Enzymatic liming
The chemical used are specially isolated bacterial or fungal proteinases which are also used in combination. Preliminary alkaline soaking or preliminary treatment and/or addition of activating salts such as sodium hydrogen carbonate, sodium bisulphate or sodium sulphite promote loosening of the hair. Fat residue or defective sections of skin and scars have an inhibiting effect. Reliming is necessary in most cases.
Enzymatic painting
Sprinkling with enzymatic preparation on the flesh side has proven a good method for sheep skin. Hair loosening occurs in about 18-24 hours. Reliming is necessary.
Control of liming process
operational:
- temperature measurments, especialy when working with higher temperature (not >28 degree c ) and for enzymatic liming or sweating treatments.
- test of the hair-slippiness.
- check of the degree of swelling and plumping by touch test press your thumb or finger if it is pressed how much time it taken to resotre or not to restore.
Analytical
1. Determination of total alkalinity.
2. Determination of sulphide sulphur.
3. Determination of efficient alkalinity.
4. Determination of ammonia content, particularly recommended when using a recirculation liming process. If the content is too high, the liquor should be changed.
Test of the liming chemicals
Analytical
1. Determination of purity and concentration should always be performed as an incoming inspection, in particular if suppliers change, in order to ensure a uniform process.
2. Determination of the iron content of sulphides and hydrosulphides. The cheapest products tend to contain high quantities, which cause blue-black iron sulphide liming stains.
Lime painting methods
Painting on the flesh side
Good draining of the soaked raw stock and a lime paint consistency that is not too thin are necessary to obtain an impeccable wool quality without defects. Liming paste is usually prepared by making solution of sodium sulphide and lime in additionally china clay is added to viscous the paste.
Grain lime painting (drum painting, Darmstadt through feed method)
Especially suitable for sensitive hides with prominent growth marks and or very flat substance gives smooth pelts without wrinkled or loosed grain.
Liming methods
Pure hydrated lime pit depending on the raw stock hair loosening occurs in 6 10 days with good opening up of the skin. If using slaked lime check for insoluble components which can damage the grain. Old lime liquors tend to contain uncontrollable decomposition products which may result in increased microbial activity and thus cause loose grain, greater loss of skin substance or spongy leathers .however; in these old lime liquors the hair loosening effect is more intensive then in freshly prepared limes.
If the lime pit is used for reliming, the slipperiness of the pelts caused by sulphide lime liquors is reduced and thus a drifting of the skin in the splitting machine is avoided. Furthermore, it is used to improve opening up of the skin.
Pure sulphide lime pit
Mainly used for the goat skins to produce fine-pored, crack-resistant chevreaux leathers. Also used for veal skins or small cattle skins to obtain nubuk and suede leathers with a tight fibers texture. This method is also chosen for rapid hair loosening, poor opening up of the skin and to ensure the yield.
Sulphide/hydrated lime pit
Still the most commonly used liming method for leather production. Lime liquor concentration with over 0.2% Na2 S
Cause damage to the hair, more than 0.5 % Na2 S will destroy the hair (however, the amount of liquor, temperature and the ratio of hair coat to skin substance are influencing factors). If the pH value is below 11.0 the hair is not attacked or loosened up.
Any desired liming effect can be achieved by adjusting the parameters: proportioning and concentration of chemicals, amount of liquor, temperature, drumming intensity, duration and also the preliminary soaking method.
Sulphydrate/hydrated lime pit
Pure NaSH solution does not result in depilation. Only the addition of Ca (OH) 2 or NaOH achieves a similar effect to that of sulphide lime. This liming process causes a slight swelling of the pelts, reduces the accentuation of growth marks, grooves and wrinkleness. The fact that the leather are flatter and firmer has to be taken into account in the subsequent processing steps.
Sulphide/sulphydryl/compounds
A method which is gradually being used more often. Excessive lime swelling is reduced by replacing sulphide with Sulphydrate, however, only if the content of NaSH prevails. An initial addition of NaSH is also advantage.
Organic sulphydryl compounds
The most commonly used compounds are hydroxymercaptans or thioalcohols, especially 2-mercapto ethanol as alkali salt. They have a very high further oxidation speed and therefore do not contaminate the waste water and the waste water treatment plants. If they are used alone, rapid mixing in the lime pit is necessary. Due to their higher price they are mostly used with a low content of sulphide. These lime liquors lead to even less swelling than the use of Sulphydrate and thus to a good area yield.
Enzymatic liming
The chemical used are specially isolated bacterial or fungal proteinases which are also used in combination. Preliminary alkaline soaking or preliminary treatment and/or addition of activating salts such as sodium hydrogen carbonate, sodium bisulphate or sodium sulphite promote loosening of the hair. Fat residue or defective sections of skin and scars have an inhibiting effect. Reliming is necessary in most cases.
Enzymatic painting
Sprinkling with enzymatic preparation on the flesh side has proven a good method for sheep skin. Hair loosening occurs in about 18-24 hours. Reliming is necessary.
Sunday, August 2, 2009
chrome (3) or chrome 6
chrome is in its chromium 3 form is used in leather industry for tanning.It exits in
transition states (oxitaion) which the following are most relvant to leathermaking
'trivalent chrome
these compound occur naturally in the environment .They are found in rocks,sol,plants and volcanic emissions.Chromium salt are present in foodstuffs and are a necessary nutrient for the human body.it is required for the normal metabolism of fats and sugers.
Nutritional supplements are currently on sale containing chromium picolinate.
Chromium (III) sulfate is safe to use and is non hazardous. It is used in the leather industry for tanning.
Hexavalent chromium (Cr VI)
This is the hazardous form of this element. It can be formed when trivalent chromium is oxidized. This usually occurs in the presence of oxygen combined with other factors, such as extremes in pH. The salts have a characteristic yellow color and are classified as carcinogens as they can easily penetrate the skin and adhere to tissue cells. When chrome tanned leather dye crust or crust is directly burn in presence of oxygen like this picture shown trivalent chromium sulphite change into Hexavalent chrome. Chrome III is used in the tanning process for chrome tanned leather and if the tanning processes are carried out correctly then the resulting leather will be completely safe to use.
In leather production, however there are three ways in which chrome III could oxidize into chrome VI.
During the tanning process
If the temperature or pH is too high then chrome III has the propensity to oxidize to chrome VI.
Chemical used
If chrome powder is sourced from a non-reputable supply then there is a possibility that it may contain chrome VI
Finished leather
After the leather has been made, there is a small chance of chrome III oxidizing into chrome VI at high temperatures. This is why chrome tanned leather should never be incinerated except under very strictly controlled condition.
transition states (oxitaion) which the following are most relvant to leathermaking
'trivalent chrome
these compound occur naturally in the environment .They are found in rocks,sol,plants and volcanic emissions.Chromium salt are present in foodstuffs and are a necessary nutrient for the human body.it is required for the normal metabolism of fats and sugers.
Nutritional supplements are currently on sale containing chromium picolinate.
Chromium (III) sulfate is safe to use and is non hazardous. It is used in the leather industry for tanning.
Hexavalent chromium (Cr VI)
This is the hazardous form of this element. It can be formed when trivalent chromium is oxidized. This usually occurs in the presence of oxygen combined with other factors, such as extremes in pH. The salts have a characteristic yellow color and are classified as carcinogens as they can easily penetrate the skin and adhere to tissue cells. When chrome tanned leather dye crust or crust is directly burn in presence of oxygen like this picture shown trivalent chromium sulphite change into Hexavalent chrome. Chrome III is used in the tanning process for chrome tanned leather and if the tanning processes are carried out correctly then the resulting leather will be completely safe to use.
In leather production, however there are three ways in which chrome III could oxidize into chrome VI.
During the tanning process
If the temperature or pH is too high then chrome III has the propensity to oxidize to chrome VI.
Chemical used
If chrome powder is sourced from a non-reputable supply then there is a possibility that it may contain chrome VI
Finished leather
After the leather has been made, there is a small chance of chrome III oxidizing into chrome VI at high temperatures. This is why chrome tanned leather should never be incinerated except under very strictly controlled condition.
Saturday, August 1, 2009
SOAKING DEFECTS
Soaking defects
short,inadequate duration of soaking
is a particular source of defect of dried and partly dried skin and hide results
in a hard tinny texture of the leather of hides and hides section which have have not been adequatly soaked.
this is due difference diffusion of the subsequent treatment chemical into the skin fibers which are still partly stuck together. A perfect soak is obtained by the addition of wetting agents and alkaline sharpners. Mechanical drumming or stretching on blunt fleshing machine also promote the soaking defects.
Low soaking temperature <15>
lower temperature of the liquor slows down and inhibits the
Soaking process. the water absorption of the skin is reduced .furthermore a certain
Soaking process. the water absorption of the skin is reduced .furthermore a certain
hardness and firmness of the skin is evident.
excessive soaking temperature >28 degree centegrate
soaking temperature exceeding 28 degrree cent. can lead to undesired high bacterial growth and furthermore to greater hydrolytic degradation of skin substance,substance resulting in a flat and tinny leather quality.Prevention is only possible by adding higher amount of disinfectants.
Damage caused by mechanical process
In particular when soaking dried hides or partly dried ,salted hides the grain may become cracky as a consequence of indequate preliminary soaking followed too quickly by the subseuent treatment,or due to an excessive rotational speed of the drums.
Roller in the mixture
Caused by overloading and inadequate soaking. When the drums are overloaded so that the skin can not move easily in drum float some inner portion remain dried which cause chemical penetration problem in subsequent process
Damage caused by microbial activity
1. Miner damage due to putrefaction
No visible on the soaked hide. Noticeable by putrid smell and matt, lusterless or blind sections in the grain of the leather.
2. Serious bacterial damage
Noticeable on the soaked hide by initial signs of hair-slippiness and /or slippery surface. Is revealed in the leather by loose grain and reduced firmeness.
Heavy putrefaction
Noticeable on the soaked hide by pitting, holes, putrefaction marks on the grain and also by complete loosening of the grain layer. Smell can also be observed and hair removal in soaking.
Remedy
All the above damage can be avoided by addition of bactericidal agents and by reduction of the soaking temperature.
Soaking defects of pickled pelts
Acid swelling
Irreversible damage of the fibers is caused by soaking with a common salt addition of less than 6º Be´.
Soaking defect of fish skin
Decomposition of skin substance
Increased protein decomposition is possible in many sorts. Therefore the soaking temperature should be below 20º C and only products with a neutral reaction should be used if an addition of wetting agents is necessary.
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