Tannery solar farm gets results

Vietnam

Published:  23 June, 2010

Solar panels at PrimeAsia's Vietnam facility

PrimeAsia Vietnam began operating their newly constructed 16,500 sq ft (1536m2) solar farm in September of 2009. It is the largest solar farm in a tannery and is designed to reduce carbon emissions and minimise PrimeAsia’s reliance on fossil fuels in its operations they said in statement on June 21.

Continuing their commitment to environmental excellence, PrimeAsia invested in the installation of two 768 sq m panels designed to produce over 26,400 gallons (100,000 litres) of 75°C waterper day. This volume is equivalent to 100% of the total daily hot water needs of the factory when producing around 4.5 million sq ft of leather per month. Since the installation of the solar farm, the PrimeAsia Vietnam facility has reduced its total oil needs by over 27%.
This solar farm installation enables PrimeAsia Vietnam to reduce its CO2 emissions by over 2,560 tons, and its oil purchasing by over 606,000 litres per year.
The PrimeAsia facilities in Vietnam and China are both LWG Gold tanneries and the PrimeAsia Taiwan facility is a LWG Silver tannery.
This alternative energy installation follows PrimeAsia’s corporate vision to be a leading supplier of innovative quality leathers committed to long-term partnerships with customers, employees, community, the environment and suppliers.www.leather.mag.com

TFL the leather chemical suppliers

TFL launch economical liming agent
Worldwide

Published: 29 June, 2010

Maximise the yield of your raw hides say leather chemical makers, TFL. They have extended their beamhouse product range with the release of Erhavit FA, an economic liming agent supporting the optimisation of area yield, without making the leather loose. This liming agent optimises the opening-up of the hide structure and is very effective in reducing swelling and wrinkling during the liming process.

This product is designed to minimise seasonal short hair and hair roots making it ideal for hair-save liming processes. In addition, it improves scud loosening and blood stain removal, leading to clean uniformly dyed crust, increasing the value of the leather.

As some tanners now prefer amine-free products, Erhavit FA has been designed to meet this demand and is based on alternative reductive substances.

TFL colour trends autumn/winter 2011/12
Worldwide
Published: 24 May, 2010

TFL have released their new TFL Colour Trends catalogue for the season Autumn/Winter 2011/12. In the catalogue, TFL present the colour trends for the leather garment, footwear, accessory and upholstery segments.

They have divided the colour trends into ‘Wearing’ and ‘Living’, devoting a section to each within the publication. ‘Wearing’ comprises inspirations and colour trends for garments, footwear and accessories. The ‘Living’ section features all colours that will decorate the season’s interior design.

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In ‘Living’ furniture designs using interactive technologies and sustainable modular solutions introduce the coming future. Back-printed fabric partitions light up when walked past and the LCD crystal glass panel, separating areas, transforms into an interactive scenario through the use of electronic effects. The colours range from pastel pink to orange and dark red, complemented by grey and brownish tones.

The main themes in ‘Wearing’ are simplicity, used materials and colour mix. Simplicity is achieved through simple shapes and by focusing on using materials in an authentic fashion. The use and function of a particular design also play an important role by triggering innovative ways of attitudes. Playing around with colours by choosing, combining and changing hues can create countless options, thus evoking emotions. The colours range from various bordeaux to deep red shades complemented by brown, violet and yellowish tones.

Furthermore, TFL highlight their Sella Fast A colour range. Sella Fast A dyes are anionic powder dyes specially selected for the drum dyeing of shoe upper leather.

They also introduce the new Sella Derm M2 range of liquid salt-free metal complex dyes. These dyes are miscible in water and organic solvents. They are recommended for shade intensifying, correcting and levelling of dyed leather.

The TFL Colour Trends catalogue is now available. For further details visit www.tfl.com.

Renewal of ISO Certification
June 2010
End of May 2010, TFL France S.A.S. received its re-registration to the ISO 9001:2008 standard. At that time, all quality processes have been re-examined for compliance with the current standards.
ISO 9001 is the most rigid certification for process qualifications, intended for use in any organization which designs, develops, manufactures, distributes any product or provides any form of service. ISO 9001 provides customers with objective proof that the compliant company has an effective quality management system and all of the standards’ requirements are met. The ISO standards apply uniformly to companies in any industry and of any size. Before receiving ISO 9001 registration, companies must demonstrate that their quality management system results in continual improvement.

One of TFL France goals is to keep its quality management system easy and user friendly with the help of the process owners and internal auditors. Its quality system is for the company a management tool and a great help of continuous improvement with a main target: the customer satisfaction.

ISO certification for TFL France

France

Published:  23 June, 2010

At the end of May 2010, TFL France received its re-registration according to the ISO 9001:2008 Standard. All quality processes were re-examined for compliance with the current standard.

One of TFL France goals is to keep its quality management system easy and user friendly for all employees with the help of the process owners and internal auditors. Its quality management system is also for the company a management tool and a great help in continuous improvement with the main target: customer satisfaction.
TFL’s worldwide Quality Management:
The goal of TFL is to provide their customers with high quality services and products. In order to ensure this goal, TFL‘s policy has established a Quality Management system according to ISO 9001 in all major TFL Group Companies.
The following TFL companies have a valid quality management system based on the ISO 9001 standard:
TFL Argentina
TFL do Brazil
TFL China
TFL France
TFL India
TFL Italy
TFL state that this achievement is the result of their entire organisation working together in effectively developing and maintaining its quality management systems. Meeting the ever growing customer demand for the highest level of quality is vital to the future success of companies in any kind of business. TFL have demonstrated its commitment to quality and to continuous improvement of its management system by successfully achieving registration in all its production plants worldwide.

SRL to exit garment leather business

China
Published: 23 June, 2010

Shanghai Richina Leather Co (SRL) announced on June 23 plans to cease ovine leather production operations effective Friday, September 3, 2010.

The SRL garment division produces lambskin leather from New Zealand and North African pelts primarily for the US and European premium leather jacket market. The division employs 310 workers.

According to Bob Moore, Shanghai Richina’s CEO, ‘SRL’s focus today is on building and growing our auto, footwear and accessories leather businesses. These operating groups, to be vertically aligned with SRL’s new Fuxin wet-blue production facility, will allow us to more effectively expand and grow our bovine business volumes and profitability.’

Felix Lu, general manager of SRL’s ovine business added, ‘this was a difficult decision for us to make because of the heritage of Richina’s lambskin business, and our many loyal tannery workers and customers. We are confident that by shifting our focus, energy and assets to SRL’s bovine businesses, we will maximise our return on investment.’

Shanghai Richina Leather is headquartered in Shanghai, China and produces automotive, footwear, accessories and garment leather for global brands including Toyota, Citroen, Peugeot, Cole Haan, Johnston and Murphy, Merrell, Clarks, Born, HH Brown, Sperry Topsider, Wolverine, Coach and others.

Leather straight-jacket inspiration

United Kingdom
Published: 25 May, 2010

Leather Straight-Jacket from Gemma Francis

A UK student’s collection inspired by restriction, straight jackets and the textures of animal hide will appear on the catwalk at London’s Graduate Fashion Week in June.
Gemma Francis, a third year Fashion Design student at Leicester’s De Montfort University (DMU) has used shiny and matt metallic leather, metal studs and custom-made nails in her catwalk collection, which is to appear at the prestigious event at Earls’ Court on June 8. The leather was supplied by GH Leather.

Cow leather, as well as pig and lambskin are key features within her garments, providing subtle variations in texture and visual appearance. She also used metal buckles, clips and commissioned an engineer to make metal nails with special screw threads to allow her to secure pieces to her garments.
The 21-year-old from Maidstone, said: ‘I really pushed myself to the limit with my final collection and put a lot of time into researching silhouettes and imaginative use of fabrics and techniques. This is what led me to the idea of using different animal skin within each piece. All of the material used in my collection has been carefully sourced and is a bi-product of the meat industry.’

‘At the outset, I explored the effect that restriction and types of torture have on the body and designed pieces that change the shape of the body, creating awkward silhouettes influenced by my research.’
Gemma was given the chance to showcase her collection at Graduate Fashion Week when the original selection panel gathered on May 4 to pick the students to make the final catwalk cut. On the panel were Karen Millen and Anthony Campbell, who has designed for friend and fashion label founder, Richard Nicoll
Karen Millen, said: ‘What was impressive about the students was the really varied techniques they were using to create some really individual pieces that will look fantastic on the catwalk.’

TFL colour trends spring/summer 2011

Worldwide  

TFL have released their ‘TFL Colour Trends’ catalogue for the season spring/summer 2011. In the catalogue, TFL present colour trends for the leather garment, footwear, leathergoods and additionally, for the upholstery industry.

The colour trends are divided into ‘wearing’ and ‘living’ themes with a dedicated section on each within the book. ‘Wearing’ comprises inspirations and colour trends for garment, footwear and accessories whereas in the ‘Living’ theme all colours presented are for the season’s interior design concepts.
In the ‘Living’ section the topic is ‘the freshness of the sea’. New marine shades have been developed on nubuck surfaces that are enhanced with the Scotchgard leather protector. Bright shades of dyed wet-white leather in strong yellow, lucent orange and light blue are shown.

In the theme ‘wearing’ a reference is made to highly opaque veg leathers polished by wood. Japanese ‘Raku’ pottery shows new metal-pearl reflections in bronze-turquoise, copper-green, gold-clay and platinum-lilac.
Furthermore, in this edition some information about the ‘TFL Cool System’ is included. With ‘Cool’ dyes, it is also possible to use more deeply coloured leather articles in the summer time.
The TFL Colour Trend catalogue is now available. For further details please visit www.tfl.com

Saigon TanTec win energy efficiency prize

Germany/Vietnam
Published: 23 April, 2010

The ISA TanTec tannery in Saigon, Vietnam has been awarded second prize in the German Energy Efficiency Awards by the German Energy Agency (EnergieEffizienz). Viessmann Werke, a heating technology system manufacturer won the first prize.

Building on the experience of their comparable production facility in China, tanners ISA TanTec have implemented an integrated energy and environmental management system for their new plant in Saigon.

Saigon TanTec uses on average only 33 mega joules (MJ) of energy per square metre of leather, in comparison with a leather industry standard of approximately 52 MJ (calculation by BLC – Leather Technology Centre).

The aim of the energy and environmental management system was to make an efficient use of energy, water and chemicals and to carry out continuous monitoring and calculation of the overall energy requirement of the production process. The reduction in energy requirement was achieved by optimising individual formulations, lighting and air conditioning systems and by in-process measures.

Saigon TanTec were awarded the 2nd prize in view of their all-round approach and consistent implementation of innovative technologies in the field of energy and environmental engineering. The company’s strategic energy and environmental management, which takes a holistic view of production and is directed to continuous, environmentally focused optimisation of the entire production. With its ‘LITE Leather’ label, the company has created a mark, recognised in the leather industry, which identifies leather produced in an energy and resource efficient manner.

The savings achieved by Saigon TanTec such as the 40% cut in energy consumption and the reduction in CO2 emissions of 2,700 tonnes per year.

Air conditioning has been replaced with an open design optimised for airflow as well as a 50% reduction in water consumption and 15% reduction in chemical consumption has been achieved.

Clariant to showcase in Guangzhou
China
Published: 22 April, 2010

Visitors to the 2010 Guangzhou Leather Fair, Guangzhou, China, June 1-3 will be see Clariant’s new collection of leathers, based on their spring-summer 2011 colour and fashion trends. Leathers covering most types, including shoe uppers, handbags, garments, and sofas will be shown. On booth 0110 0112 & 0131 0133 in hall 11.2, Clariant will demonstrate how innovative products and processing techniques, offering environmental benefits and optimum processing economy, can enhance the natural beauty of leather with the look and performance to suit individual customer requirements.

Under the motto: ‘Clariant – Always One Shoe Step Ahead’ Clariant will showcase innovative highlights from wet-end to finishing, created through their global approach to fashion and article development. New specifications constantly require adjustment and innovation.



Highlights from Wet End

Innovative systems for full and soft chrome or chrome free leathers

Clariant continues to use leading edge technology in order to provide chemicals that meet today’s requirements for ecological, innovative and aesthetically pleasing leathers, while giving the tanner maximum added value and process simplicity:

Chrome Free Collections

Chrome free leather, using Clariant’s pretanning system Granofin® F-60 in synergy with the retanning agent Tanicor® SCU.

Nappa and Sofa Collections

Clariant offers Natural Nappa and Superb Sofa collections produced using its specialty retanning and fatliquoring systems, Tergotan® PMB and Tergotan TSP. These intelligent polymer retanning agents deliver even softness, tightness and grain pattern. Tergotan
PO-60, a brand new development from Clariant, is a true retanning and softening polymer that gives superb softness / tightness when used as a replacement for conventional retanning agents and fatliquors. On a phenol and formaldehyde free basis, it can meet even the toughest ecological legislation. In combination with Clariant’s specialty fatliquoring systems featuring the new Derminol® SO-31, a highly softening synthetic fatliquor, Clariant can offer total solutions for all nappa and sofa requirements.

Vegetable looks and handles from chrome and chrome free substrates

To meet current market trends for vegetable type leathers Clariant presents a full range of new articles with that classical vegetable look and feel using our new specialty fatliquors: Derminol DDS and Derminol PUA. These products along with innovative processing techniques offer the tanner the opportunities to produce beautiful vegetable type articles with the simplicity and economy of traditional chrome leathers.

From the Finishing side Clariant presents the following innovations:


Elegant Upgrading

Elegant upgrading continues to play an important role in today’s leather manufacture. The importance of cutting yield and increased profitability are still at the forefront of Clariant’s finishing developments. As one of the market leaders in specialty chemicals and in upgrading technologies, Clariant offers its customers complete tailor-made solutions with real benefits.

Finishing techniques for upgrading using Melio® Aquabase and Melio Ground systems provide solutions for the low grade raw materials currently available and meet the current requirements of the market. In particular, customers can take advantage of the outstanding upgrading and natural looks obtained with Clariant’s highly innovative cationic prebase compound Melio Ground UP.

Melio Aquabase Technique – to cover hide defects

Melio Aquabase M-90

This new innovative development is used to cover deep defects, in order to make them invisible after finishing. Melio Aquabase M-90 is applied by hand with a spatula. The application is extremely simple due to its special composition which allows application without drying too quickly and enables buffing without smearing. Melio Aquabase M-90 is suitable for a wide range of leathers, including automotive, shoe upper and upholstery leathers.

Beautiful rich wax effects and versatility for both shoe and upholstery styles

Melio 06-F-88

Clariant offers a new water-based wax with excellent burnishability along with high gloss and a natural waxy touch that make it suitable for both shoe and upholstery leathers. Clariant’s new Melio 06-F-88 gives versatility and ease of use to the Finisher.

New Aqualen® topcoat systems for all requirements

Aqualen Top DC-2050.B / Top GC-2051.A

Clariant’s new topcoat system based on Aqualen Top DC-2050.B (dull) and Aqualen Top GC-2051.A (gloss) is a brand new development especially for soft leathers such as furniture leather or shoe upper nappas.

Both products can be mixed in any ratio in order to adjust the desired level of gloss or dullness. Common to both products and therefore the whole system is the very elegant optic achieved as a result of the softness, very high resistance to rubbing and flexing, no hardening even after long period of time, and a very natural appearance and pleasant feel.

Melio WF-5238 / WF-5243

Two new developments to compliment our already outstanding aqueous topcoat systems. Melio WF-5238, a highly concentrated silicone with a luxurious smooth feel which also improves physical properties of aqueous topcoats, and Melio WF-5243, an additive with a natural pleasant handle and the ‘wet touch’ feel which now features strongly in customer requirements.

Neosan® 2000 – the intelligent pigment system

These pioneering casein free aqueous pigment dispersions offer new customized solutions with outstanding advantages. They are Arizona-proofed for outstanding heat and light fastness as well as hot light ageing properties. When used with Clariant’s Pelcroma® Computer Color Matching, accurate, true and brilliant colors are assured.

Supronil® HK dyes

Discover Clariant’s very well established Supronil HK range, a complete range of versatile colors suited to today’s fashion demands.
China goes to WTO on footwear duties
China/European Union
Published: 09 February, 2010

China filed a complaint against European Union shoe tariffs at the World Trade Organization as Beijing continued its legal assault on what it says is unfair Western protectionism. Europe has grown increasingly concerned about China's balance of trade and what some critics view as its artificially weak currency.

China, which joined the WTO in 2001, filed its first unfair trade case against the European Union in July 2009, also involving antidumping duties.
The latest move appeared intended to increase pressure on the European Union, which had itself been sharply divided over extending the shoe tariffs.
In a statement issued by its mission in Geneva, where the WTO is based, the Chinese government said Europe's actions ‘violated various obligations under the WTO and consequently caused damage to the legitimate rights and interests of Chinese exporters.’ It added that China ‘had repeatedly consulted’ with the European Union but said that its concerns ‘had not been properly addressed or settled.’
In an eight-page legal complaint, the Chinese government requested consultations on both the original 2006 decision to impose the shoe duties and last year's move to extend them. The EU and the U.S. have sought to stem the flow of Chinese imports with special duties.
In the EU case, China is taking on one of the most important tariff increases ever levied, which has negatively impacted its shoe industry. The 16.5% tariffs are antidumping duties, meant to punish goods that are sold below cost and hurt the sales of domestic producers. The EU duties were inaugurated in 2006 and extended for 15 months in December 2009. At the same time, shoe imports from Vietnam were hit with a 10% tariff.
The EU dismissed the complaint. ‘Antidumping duties are not about protectionism’, said spokesman John Clancy. ‘They are about fighting unfair trade.’ The measures, he said, were imposed only on ‘evidence that dumping of Chinese products has taken place and that this is harming the otherwise competitive EU industry.’