Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Tanners Power List 2010 – have your say

leather international magazine
Worldwide
Published: 21 April, 2010

The LEATHER International Power List 2010 is ready to roll and we
are once again inviting all readers and online users to have their say as to who they
consider to be the most important and influential tanners on the
planet. First published in August 2009, the LEATHER International
Power List highlighted the twenty leading tanners in the world.
A review of the 2009 results can be seen by clicking on the power list menu option.

This year LEATHER International will be compiling a further list
of the most influential personalities in the global leather business.
We will publish the list of the twenty most highly recommended
tanners in the September issue. Who are they? You could help
decide.


What are the criteria to be included in the power list?
• The most senior member of a large tanning group that has dayto-
day involvement in the business.
• International tanners/groups with plants in different countries
and regions.
• Company/group managing director level and above.
• Suppliers to the major brands (volume and/or luxury).
• Owners/senior person of single site mega-tanneries with high
production volumes.
• People who have business power in the leather industry, decision
makers and political influence where appropriate.
• Major suppliers of either or all of the following: upholstery,
footwear, garment and leathergoods leathers. Semi processed
leathers also count, such as wet-blue processors
• Who are the major players on the world stage: from Asia, South
& North America, Europe, Africa & Middle East and the Indian
sub-continent.
• Leaders in environmental protection and ‘green’ leathermaking
• We are NOT looking for senior figures from any parent
companies not connected to tanning nor suppliers, traders,
agents, associations or those connected to trade fairs, research
associations or other trade bodies.

How can you help?
We would be delighted to receive any suggestion of those that
would fit the criteria set out above + their position and home
country. We will then draw up a list of 20 then write about each
individual connected to their business and include a picture.
Your suggestions will remain private and confidential with us. So
you can suggest someone even if they are NOT your customer (but
wish they were!). Send your suggestions by email to the editor:
mricker@leathermag.com by the end of July 2010.

How will we present the list?
It is impossible to say who has the most power and influence from
such a list so we intend to publish the final list of twenty in
alphabetical order. The readers of LEATHER International
magazine can then decide for themselves who is the tanner of all
tanners!




Leather International » Latest News
Stahl finishing lesson to leather students

United Kingdom
Published: 19 April, 2010

BSLT students at the Stahl finishing course

This year’s Leather Finishing Training Course run by Stahl at the BSLT (British School of Leather Technology) in Northampton, UK was given to 14 students from India, Pakistan, Uganda, France, Italy and Kenya. The course showed students the basic principles of leather finishing and the ways in which finishing products could be used in formulations.

The course was run by Wolfgang Schmälzle, an expert from Stahl’s Leather Finishing Centre in Waalwijk, Netherlands. He says, ‘The students really liked it because there was enough freedom for them to create their own leathers.’

Schmälzle, was assisted by Paul Evans and Chris Barnard, members of BSLT staff, whose practical knowledge of finishing and the use of BSLT’s machinery was invaluable in ensuring that the course ran smoothly.

Each day followed a similar two-part pattern. The mornings concentrated on the theory of finishing. The afternoons provided practical work. Wolfgang covered many aspects of finishing including automotive leathers, and full and corrected grains with special reference to waterproof finishes.

Leather finishing is often not as straightforward as might be imagined. Schmälzle talked about some of the more difficult aspects, including colour matching and related metamerism under different lighting conditions and other potential problems.

Recent developments in technology formed the subject of a number of discussions and the students were especially interested in Stahl’s views on NMP-free automotive finishes.

PISD (Cleaner technology program for Pakistan leather industry)

INTRODUCTION
Cleaner production institute (CPI) is a not-profit and non-governmental organization registered under society’s registration act of 1860. The institute aims to promote and execute environment development projects in the industrial sectors of Pakistan and conduct research in areas concerning the environmental technology. CPI has initiated the program for industrial sustainable development (PISD) on July, 01 2007 with technical assistance from royal Netherlands Embassy (RNE) to help Pakistan industry stay competitive. The program essentially upholds the need of internalizing environment and energy costs into an economic process. Sector specific cleaner technology and energy efficiency projects are the components of PISD. Leather manufacturing is one of the four major industrial sector-together with textile processing, pulp and paper and sugar on which the program will continue to focus over the first three years of its operation.
Leather industry of Pakistan
The leather industry consists of some 600 tanneries both in the
Formal sectors and is the second biggest export oriented indigenous industry of Pakistan. The leather industry has implemented many progressive intervention and technologies in the pass to deal with its numerous environment and energy challenges. The representative association of leather industry i.e. Pakistan Tanners Association (PTA) has a long been facilitating a number of initiatives to address the environment issues of the industry. This has resulted into a more competitive, sustainable and progressive leather industry of Pakistan. For sustainable of already implemented steps and in view of the continuous needs of the leather and tanning sector, PISD will transfer environmental and energy-related knowledge and technologies to address the ongoing issues of leather sector of Pakistan.


Major Environment Energy Concerns
Waste Water
In the tannery processes, water is used as a washing medium and chemical carrier. The optimal requirement for manufacturing finished leather from raw hide/skin is around 50-60 liters of water per Kg of hide/skin but actual consumption of water locally is at least three times more.
Wet processes of the tannery are the main sources of wastewater generation, while some mechanical operation also contributes small quantities of wastewater. Tannery wastewater is highly polluted in term of Biochemical Oxygen Demand (BOD), Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD), Total Suspended Solids (TSS), Sulphide and Chromium etc.
Solid waste
Two types of solids wastes are generated from leather production processes (tanned and untanned). Solid waste includes dusted curing salts, raw trimming, wet-blue trimmings, dry trimmings, wet-blue shavings, dry shavings, buffing and packing material etc. on an average a tannery processing 10,000 kg of raw material pr day generates some 5,500 kg of solid waste daily. The solid wastes do have secondary use in glue manufacturing and poultry feed making etc. however the use of chrome-containing solid waste for poultry feed preparation can causes serious health problem for consumers.
Air Emission
The generators and boilers are two point sources of air emissions from tanneries in the occupational environment, caused the diffused ammonia and hydrogen sulphide emissions in the occupational environment, caused by the mixing of acidic and alkaline wastewater in drains pose serious health hazards. Indoor air pollution also results from the processes of lining and deliming, where hydrogen sulphide and ammonia are generated respectively. In the finishing operations, spray plant may become a source of indoor VOC emissions if operated inappropriately.
Health Risk
The hazards gases released form leather processing pose acute threat to the health of nearby residents. Ammonia emissions during processing and washing of drums have serious negative impacts on workers health. Similarly hydrogen sulphide emission during mixing of acidic and alkaline wastewater in drain has potential to cause many health related problems.
Tannery wastewater may lead to contamination of groundwater which results in variety water borne diseases.


Energy issues
Generally, a leather unit consumes over 0.97-1.87 MJ i.e 270-300 KWh of energy to produce 100 ft2 of finished leather. The absence of energy efficient technologies and lack of proper maintenance steam pips and of insulations is causing wastage of significant amount of energy in most leather processing units.
PISD
Cleaner production technology has gained excellent reputation and success over the years in Pakistan under various projects aiming to help industrial units improve their environmental performance without compromising on profit margins.
More recently, the energy efficient technologies have also gained significant due to the heavy cost of electrical and thermal energy. Substantial savings could be made annually be conserving energy alones amongst textile processing units to benefit from energy efficient selections.
Considering this, cleaner production institute (CPI) has started the program for industrial sustainable development (PISD. Cleaner (energy efficiency) technology project for Karachi tanneries (CTP-KT) is a component project of PISD. CTP-KT intends to provide free of cost technical services to Karachi based leather processing units in implementing energy efficient and environment friendly technologies.
Cleaner (Energy Efficiency) Technology Project for Karachi

CTP-KT is an ongoing project of PTA Southern ZONE Environment Society (PTA.SZES) is completed in April 2008-PISD incorporates the additional outputs and services of CTP-KT beyond 2008.
There is a continuous demand of continuity of CTP-KT beyond 2008 because of the commissioning of combined effluent treatment plant (CETP) the very high return on investments and potential of substantial financial savings demonstrated during the successful implementation“Energy Conservation Program for Punjab Tanneries”. It also includes development of institutional framework for the sustainable management and operations of CETP which will serve as the guiding system for the further CETP in Pakistan.
Project services
Following are the major activities and outputs of the project.
1. Dissemination and communication seminars, workshops, brochures, posters, leaflets and website for raising awareness about cleaner and energy efficient technologies.
2. Institutional development
Legal, financial, monitoring and emerging preparedness system and tools.
Capacity building of the industry about environment, energy, cleaner production concerned legal issues and their solutions.
Effective role of industrial associations to serve as fascinator on these issues.
3. Cleaner technologies and energy efficiency:
Integrated environmental and energy audits and action plans
Implementation of cleaner production technologies.

Implementation of energy efficient technologies environment and energy reports.
4. Training and human resource development
Training of industry personal on cleaner production technologies, energy efficiency occupational health and safety, environment management system (EMS) and ISO 14001 certification.
5. Environmental management system and certification development of EMC manual, implementation of EMC ISO. 14001 certification
6. Corporate social responsibility (CSR)
CSR reports of selected industrial units.
7. Cleaner production and energy efficient technologies performance reports for various technology interventions

Project benefits
A variety of multi faceted are expected from the implementation of the project including
1. Implementation of cleaner production, energy efficient technologies and environmental management system.
2. Increased awareness on environmental and energy issues among industrial personnel.
3. Effective and trained workforce on cleaner technologies energy efficiency environmental engineering occupational health and safety environmental management system corporate social responsibility etc.
4. Improved competitiveness and business image through resources conservation and environment compliance effective institutional coordination between industrial associations and government agencies for dovetailing environmental issues into national industrial policies. Improved work force productivity through better occupational health and safety conditions.
Improved relations and links of the industry with R & D institutions, certification and legal bodies vendors and other stakeholders.
Project Team
A dedicated team of CPI professional and experts is placed in the tannery cluster of Korangi Industrial Area Karachi to provide technical assistance to partner industrial units. The project team comprises of engineers (mechanical, chemical, environmental and electrical) and EMS specialists.
The project team is working under the supervision of a national program coordinator and a program manager. The project team also has valuable support from separate dissemination and communication team in carrying out different activities and events. Besides expatriate professionals and local consultants in pertinent areas are also hired to assist the project teams in various tasks.
Who can join CTP-KT
1. Are members of PTA (SZ) Environmental Society or are willing to become so.
2. Show verifiable interest in mobilizing human and capital investments for successful implementation of solutions suggested by the project team.
3. Are nominal of managing committee PTA (SZ) ES



Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Pittards back in profit source leather international mag.

United Kingdom
Published: 20 April, 2010

International tanning group Pittards, Yeovil, UK are back in the black with a full year pre-tax profit of £1.6m ($2,4m) compared with a loss of £0.4m (0,6m) in 2008. Revenues for the year to the end of December 2009 fell to £24.6m ($37.4), down from £26.8m ($40.7).

Pittards chairman Stephen Boyd said: ‘I advised the group's return to profitability in my first half-year statement at the post tax level, and I am delighted to report that this profitability carried through for the whole of 2009, despite the sustained global recession.’

Pittards say the continued relative weakness of sterling, and its continued focus on costs helped it to achieve a profit from trading activities of £0.8m ($1.2m) (2008: £1.4m ($2.1m)) despite some loss of volume in the first half of the year.

The group also benefited from an exceptional gain of £1m ($1.5) arising from the acquisition of the Ethiopia Tannery Share Company (ETSC) on December 29 (see Leather International, March page 40), which led to a profit before finance costs of £1.9m ($2.9) (2008: loss of £0.07m ($0.10m). Finance costs were also lower than incurred in 2008, due principally to a lower bank base rate.
Pittards receive royal visit
United Kingdom
Published: 08 December, 2009
Princess Royal visits Pittards

Marcus Young, Innovations Technologist, Pittards informs the Princess Royal about their Keratan range of technical leathers

The Princess Royal officially opened the new marketing suite at UK based tanners and leathergoods manufacturers, Pittards on December 7. Prior to the unveiling the princess toured the tannery at the company headquarters in Yeovil, Somerset to observe the manufacture of bovine side and small skin gloving leathers which are both manufactured on the single site.

Among the invited guests and civil dignitaries attending the event the Ethiopian Ambassador to the UK, Berhanu Kebede, was also present following Pittard’s announcement last week of the acquisition of the Ethiopia Tannery Share Company tannery. Pittards had previously been managing the tannery located outside of Addis Ababa for the past four years. ‘Pittards have been doing business in Ethiopia for many years now and the acquisition of the tannery is a symbol of co-operation between the UK and Ethiopia’, Berhanu Kebede told Leather International. ‘We can benefit from Pittards know-how and technology which will allow the ETSC tannery to add value to the abundant raw material which we have and will act as important source of income generation for our country and will hopefully open the door to other like minded companies’, he added.
Once the deal has been finalised Pittards aim to shift more small skin production to the Ethiopian tannery and will concentrate on bovine production and product innovation, sales and marketing at the Yeovil site. The Princess Royals visit was organised in conjunction with the UK Fashion Exports organisation of which she is patron.
‘We see the acquisition of the ETSC tannery as a fulcrum deal in the ongoing development strategy of the business’, Stephen Boyd, Pittards chairman told Leather International. ‘The Princess Royals visit is the icing on the cake for all the recent developments we have made with the business and underlines the Pittards brand as a continuing leader in the manufacture of fashion and technical leathers’, he added. ‘All of this however, could not have been achieved without the continuous and loyal commitment of both our customers and staff.’
The Princess Royal was presented with a number of gifts at the unveiling including a saddle and other leathergoods manufactured using Pittards leathers.

Pittards exchange contracts for ETSC
United Kingdom - Ethiopia

Published: 10 December, 2009
Ambassador meets The Princess Royal

Ethiopian Ambassador to the UK, Berhanu Kebede meeting The Princess Royal at Pittards on December 7

Yeovil-based leather manufacturer, Pittards plc, producer of technically advanced leather and leather goods for sale to retailers, manufacturers and distributors, have announced on December 10, that they have exchanged conditional contracts with the government of Ethiopia for the acquisition of the Ethiopia Tannery Share Company (ETSC).

Pittards is to fund the acquisition through a share placement of new ordinary shares many of which will be taken up by the existing directors and owners of the business. The contract is conditional on the approval of Pittards’ existing shareholders at a general meeting to be held on December 22.
Pittards have a long history of trade with Ethiopia and the purchase of Ethiopian sheepskins for its glove leather production . ETSC is Ethiopia’s largest tannery and has been operated under Pittards’ supervision since August 2005 in return for a monthly management fee and royalty payments. In that period, production quality, efficiencies and methods have been significantly enhanced. ETSC is operating profitably and Pittards intends to transfer more volume production from their UK site in Yeovil to ETSC, freeing up additional resource in Yeovil for more technologically advanced, higher value added leathers-for example for the luxury leathergoods sector.
Stephen Boyd, chairman of Pittards commented: ‘We are delighted to have concluded this deal to acquire ETSC, a company we have known for many years and with which we have had a close working relationship since 2005. This acquisition has the potential to be a great deal for Pittards and Ethiopia and we look to the future with confidence.’

Sunday, April 18, 2010

Australia the 2nd largest country in wool producing

Australia is the second country of the world where number of sheep is highest while China is the first. Climate and vast pastures of Australia are the ideal conditions for sheep rearing. The climate of the large part of Australia is dry which highly favourable for sheep rearing. Vast pastures covered with bushes and grasses are ideal pasture of sheep. A large number of sheep are reared in the dry parts of the country. This is the reason that Australia is the leader in production. This fact can be realized in the light of the figures that Australia produced 700, 000 metric tones of wool in 2002 comprising 30 % of the total wool produced in the world during the same period. The special breed of sheep in Australia is Merynose which consist of 65 % of sheep reared here. The cross breed of sheep is 33 % here. Best breed of sheep, modern and sophisticated methods of their rearing and arrangement of modern sheep feed are the factors which have made Australia the leader in wool production. The best variety of wool is produced in abundance here. Per sheep wool production in Australia is 12 to 22 kg. Sheep are reared in southern regions, south east and south western regions. Thin population and temperature climate, the demand for wool in Australia is low therefore, surplus wool is exported to America, France, China, Japan and India.

New Zealand
Although the area of New Zealand is small but startlingly, the number of sheep is very high. New Zealand is at number six. New Zealand has specialized in rearing mutton sheep rather than wool sheep because of high moist climate and vast grazing fields. Wool, after all, is one of the most important items of import for New Zealand. Moist climate, vast grass lands and nearness of sheep farms to the coastal areas has made New Zealand the second biggest wool exporting countries and third wool producing country at the global level. The Canterbury plains on the dry delta and in the east of South Island, is the central region for sheep rearing. Moreover, Oakland Peninsula, Hawks Bay region, Tranki and Wanganui Lowlands in North and the Otago region in the South Island are the ideal areas for sheep rearing. 75 % of total wool produced in New Zealand is obtained from Rommey Marsh breed of sheep which are reared here on the very large scale. Middle grade wool is commonly produced in Ne w Zealand.
Common wealth of independent states (CIS)
Former United State of Soviet Russia, before 1990, was on top in having the number of sheep for mutton purpose. The total meet used to be consumed locally. Most of the sheep rearing areas are dry and they exclusively grazed on natural vegetation. Amongst CIS states, Russia occupies 20th position in the number of sheep kept at the world level and 14th in wool production. The other sheep rearing and wool producing states are Kazakhstan, entire Central Asia has highly favourable factor for sheep rearing on the basis of vast grazing fields, moist to dry climate plateaus and mountains.
United State of America
Sheep are important in U.S.A neither for mutton nor wool production. The number of sheep in U.S.A is on gradual decrease. In the Western States of America, sheep are reared both for mutton and wool purposes. Most of the sheep are reared in Texas. USA occupies 20th position for the insufficient even for the local woolen textile industry. Although sheep rearing is not popular in United State of America nevertheless, she is leading in the woolen textile industry. Shortage of supply of wool is catered from import.
Britain
Britain is a small country in area but densely populated therefore, sheep are reared in the areas which can`t be used for cultivation purpose. These sheep rearing regions include mountainous regions of Scotland, Northern Mountains regions of Scotland, Cheviot Hills, Pennies, the Lake Districts, the Welsh Mountains, the Moor lands of Devon, Somerset and Cornwall and part of Eastern Ireland. Sheep are reared here as mixed farming. Sheep rearing provides employment to thousands of people in Britain. Approximately, 42 million sheep are kept here. Woolen textile industry is very old in Britain. Woolen textile and product of Britain are of high quality and demanded all over the world. Britain although produces abundant wool but she, to cater the local needs, also imports wool from Australia, New Zealand. Britain, for the production of mutton lamb is the leader of the world and consumes highest amount of lamb meet per head.

Selling of wool
Marketing Agents

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Producer: Wool is sold directly to buyers, independent coop warehouse, or mill reps on an individual offer and acceptance basis.
*

Wool Pools and Coops: The wool pools accumulate members' wool and sell and ship in quantity. They may take advantage of valu-adding opportunities. Clips are consigned to the pool and the sale committee determines when and how to sell the pool. They are the representatives of the individual growers.
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Warehouses: The warehouses are the most important single type of marketing agency within the domestic wool marketing system. The sharp decline over the past 20 years in domestic production of grease wool has affected the location, number, and size of wool warehouses in operation. Warehouses purchase wool at four stages of marketing: prior to shearing, at "the farm gate", at the warehouse door, or at the warehouse after consignment.



Methods of Selling

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Private Treaty: The method used when there is a single marketing agent and a single buyer. There is limited buyer competition.
*

Sealed Bid: This is a popular method of selling in wool pools. There are various buyer and buying firms. A letter is sent to buyers soliciting bids.
*

Auction: This method involves two or more buyers. They each have equal opportunity to bid on the wool. A minimum price is often listed below which bids will not be considered.
*

Descriptive Marketing: This is quickly becoming the preferred method of marketing wool in the U.S. This method uses objective measures of wool production to market and sell the wool.
Instructions for Washing Wool Fibers at Home

1. Remove and dispose of any fibers that are extremely soiled with manure or mud.

*

Pay particular attention to fiber that comes from the underbelly, anal/genital region and legs.
*

Wool that is dirty, but not matted may be washed and processed.
*

Remove any burrs, chaff or other organic debris.
*

Remove as much trash as possible.
*

The more time spent on these procedures the more valuable ($$$$) the end product will be!

2. Fill the washing machine with HOT water (top loaders only), or use a wash tub.

*

Add double the amount of laundry detergent you would normally use for washing clothes.
*

Put 5-7.5 pounds of wool into the machine.
*

Gently push the wool down into the water, spreading it out evenly.

3. DO NOT allow the machine to go into agitate cycle!

*

Doing so will cause the fiber to turn to felt---LEAVE THE LID UP!

4. Allow the wool to soak for 10 minutes

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Gently move the wool around from time to time.
*

Avoid vigorous motions, this will too cause felting.

5. You may use the spin cycle to remove the dirty water

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Spinning will not cause felting, on agitating does.

6. Repeat steps 2-5.

7. Rinse the wool by repeating steps 2-5, without the laundry detergent.

8. Allow the wool to air dry.

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Spread it out, while turning it occasionally to prevent mold.

Steps to Commercial Fiber Processing

1. Scouring

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the removal of all impurities from grease wool.
*

use water, detergent, and sometimes a mild alkali.

2. Carbonizing

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Wool containing excessive amounts of vegetable material is carbonized using an aqueous acid treatment followed by heating which converts the cellulose base defect into carbon.
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Neutralization and re-scouring complete the process.

3. Drying

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The amount of water held by the wool is reduce to below 15%.
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Moisture in wool is removed by hot, dry air blown through the wool prior to being exhausted from the dryer.

4. Carding

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Number of cylinders and rollers of equal width but variable in diameter and covered with short wires.
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Carding disentangles and separates scoured wool fibers.

5. Gilling (pin-drafting, drawing, blending)

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A blending and drawing operation that is applied to card sliver before combing.
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The contact with pins and rollers opens and straightens the wool fibers.

6. Rectilinear Combing

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Removing vegetable matter and short, tangled fibers from wool.
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Arranging fibers in parallel configuration, forming a continuous, twistless rope of combed sliver.

7. Top Finishing

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Further blending fibers into a uniform weight and thickness per unit of length and winding into a ball known as top.
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Fourteen to 18 combed slivers are combined and drafted in an autoleverller-controlled gill box.

8. Spinning, Roving, Winding, and Twisting

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Final drawing to the desired yearn count or thickness.
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Includes insertion of a predetermined amount and direction of twist.
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Delivery of yarn to appropriate package.

9. Weaving

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Interlacing of two sets of yarn to form fabric.
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A modern loom performs several sequential functions, such as required weaving type and color combinations.

10. Knitting

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Interlacing of yarn in a series of connected loops by needles to form a fabric.
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*Hand knitting yarns have less strength than those from machine knitting.

11. Finishing

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Anything that happens to a wool fabric after leaving the loom until it is ready for the cutter.
*

Characterized as mechanical, aqueous, drying, and chemical.
*



Pictures taken from SID: Sheep Production Handbook